The origins of falafel remain a subject of spirited debate, with various Middle Eastern nations claiming the dish as their own. The most widely accepted history points to Egypt, where cooks originally crafted these patties using fava beans. Today, the dish serves as a culinary anchor across the region. It defines Egyptian breakfasts, stands as a national symbol in Israel, and fuels the street life of Palestine. In Lebanon, chefs pair it with sharp tahini and fresh greens, while in Syria, it completes the traditional mezze platter.
The simple legume patty adapts to the flavor of its surroundings, and local East End chefs approach the crafting of falafel with similar regional distinction. Frequent recipe contributor Mary Schoenlein, of the iconic Mary’s Marvelous, advocates for a philosophy of lightness.
WHILE FALAFEL FROM MARY SCHOENLEIN’S MARY’S MARVELOUS USED AN ABUNDANCE OF GREEN HERBS TO PROVIDE FRESH FLAVORS, FALAFEL INSPIRED BY THE WINTER SEASON RELIES ON BRIGHT YET WARMING SEASONINGS LIKE SUMAC, HARISSA AND ALLSPICE. (Photos by Doug Young)
“After ten years of making falafel, I learned the secret is restraint,” Mary says. “My own spice blend, an abundance of fresh herbs, and the bare minimum of flour so they stay crisp, green, and never pasty.”
At L&W Market in Bridgehampton — which carries a deep bench of Middle Eastern condiments — chef Jason Weiner offers a tactical maneuver for his popular grab-and-go version. “Sneak a little mayo in the mix,” Jason suggests. “And puree the herbs instead of chopping, which gives you a beautiful green color throughout. In fact, puree the herbs with mayo in a food processor.”
Meanwhile, award-winning chef Paul Del Favero of Sag Harbor’s Harbor Market and Kitchen focuses on preparing the pulse itself to ensure the perfect bite. Paul insists on soaking dry chickpeas overnight with a “pinch of baking soda to help them double in size.”
The current season calls for a shift in profile and a reliance on pantry staples. Unlike the vibrant green, herb-heavy falafel of summer, this version embraces a deeper, more soulful character. By leaning into the earthy warmth of allspice and the subtle heat of harissa, these patties take on a beautiful golden-amber hue and a spicy depth perfect for cooler weather. Stuffed into a warm pita with lemony, garlic tahini sauce, garnishing is non-negotiable. The sharp, neon-pink of pickled red onions and a dusting of citrusy sumac provide a brilliant visual and flavor contrast to the toasted notes of the falafel, but the crucial finish is a generous scattering of fresh chopped mint; it offers a quintessential Middle Eastern lift — a cooling, aromatic brightness that cuts through the richness of the fried chickpeas and the intensity of the spices. A scattering of sliced mini cucumbers brings the veg crunch.
Falafel served on warm pita with zingy pickled onions, crunchy cukes and a few mint sprigs bring a much needed mix-up from the traditional wintertime fare. (Photos by Doug Young)
Air-frying delivers the quintessential falafel experience — a shatteringly crisp exterior giving way to a creamy, spiced center—without the mess of deep-frying. Shaping the mixture into flat discs instead of balls ensures even cooking and a perfect fit for stuffing into a warm pita. Whether derived from fava beans or chickpeas, that first bite of seasoned, golden-brown falafel remains a universal culinary delight.
Tips for the Home Cook
- Prep Right: Thoroughly dry chickpeas to ensure patties hold their shape. Use chopped coriander stalks in the mix for depth of flavor, saving the leaves for garnish.
- Smart Shaping: Use wet hands to prevent sticking and form the mix into flat discs. Doing this increases the surface area for better browning and prevents the food from rolling in the air fryer.
- The Chill Factor: If time allows, refrigerate shaped patties for 15 minutes before cooking to help the flour hydrate and prevent crumbling.
- The Ice Water Secret: Use ice-cold water when whisking the tahini sauce to emulsify the fat, resulting in a fluffy, pale, and perfectly smooth consistency.
- Refresh the Crunch: Store leftovers for up to 6 days. Reheat in the air fryer at 300°F for 3–5 minutes to restore the crisp exterior; avoid the microwave.
Winter falafel
Ingredients
For the falafel
- 2 15 oz cans chickpeas, drained
- 1 lemon, zested (save juice for sauce)
- 1 tbsp harissa paste
- 1 tsp allspice
- 1 tbsp plain flour
- 1 oz fresh coriander (cilantro), stalks chopped (save leaves for garnish)
- olive oil (for brushing/spraying)
- sea salt and black pepper, to taste
For the tahini sauce
- 4 medium to large cloves garlic, pressed or minced
- 1/4 cup lemon juice
- 1/2 cup tahini
- 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
- 1 pinch ground cumin
- 6 tbsp ice water, more as needed
To serve
- 4 pita breads, warmed
- fresh mint leaves, roughly torn
- crunchy mini cucumbers cut into rounds
- sprinkle of sumac
Directions
- Infuse the Sauce Base: In a medium bowl, combine the garlic and lemon juice. Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes to give the garlic time to infuse the lemon juice with flavor.
- Make the Falafel Mix: While the garlic rests, place the drained chickpeas into a food processor. Add the lemon zest, harissa, allspice, flour, and the chopped coriander stalks. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.
- Blitz: Pulse the mixture until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides if necessary.You want a moldable paste, not a liquid purée.
- Shape: With clean, wet hands, divide the mixture and shape into small flat discs. Shaping them into discs ensures they cook evenly in the air fryer and fit perfectly inside a pita.
- Prep the Air Fryer: Preheat your air fryer to 375°F. Lightly grease the basket with olive oil or a non-stick spray.
- Air Fry: Arrange the discs in a single layer in the basket. Brush or spray the tops of the falafel with a little olive oil. Cook for 12–14 minutes, gently flipping them halfway through, until they are golden brown and crisp.
- Finish the Sauce: Pour the garlic-lemon mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into another bowl. Press the solids to extract all liquid, then discard the garlic. Whisk in the tahini, salt, and cumin. Gradually add ice water 2tablespoons at a time, whisking until the sauce is ultra-creamy and light-colored.
- Assemble:Warm the pitas. Stuff each with 4–5 falafel discs, crunchy cukes, and a generous drizzle of the tahini sauce. Top with fresh mint and reserved coriander leaves.
