Last month, we were lucky enough to get the insider scoop on a gorgeous six-course “Cab Franc Forward N.Y. Winemaker Dinner” at The Pridwin Hotel on Shelter Island. The dinner was hosted by Cab Franc Forward, a bold collective of pioneering New York wineries whose mission is to redefine the state’s flagship red grape, cabernet franc, as a premier red with elegance and complexity, drawing attention to the incredible talent emerging from regions like the Finger Lakes and Long Island. (Read Amy Zavatto’s profile on Cab Franc Forward in the Northforker here.)
Executive chef Todd Ruiz didn’t just design a menu; he curated a balanced tasting experience. He was meticulous, first tasting each wine to understand its differences, aiming for a careful balance. As he explains, he sought to pair “light, refreshing flavors” with “deep, rich, umami-forward flavors that match the more robust expressions of cab franc.” This commitment ensured a perfect harmony between bright, delicate dishes and the complex, intense flavors required to complement elegant reds from pioneering wineries like Paumanok, Macari, Wölffer Estate, Fjord Vineyards, and Hermann J. Wiemer Winery.
Chef Todd Ruiz (top left) and the Cab Franc Forward team (bottom right): Oskar Bynke, Hermann J. Wiemer Winery; Roman Roth, Wölffer Estate; Casey Erdmann, Fjord Vineyards; Max Rohn, Wölffer Estate; Kareem Massoud, Paumanok Vineyards; Byron Elmendorf, Macari Vineyards. (Photos by Doug Young)
This dish isn’t your nonna’s Sunday pasta (unless your nonna is a professional chef!). It’s a serious undertaking, a genuine labor of love that yields stunning, double-filled pasta pockets. You get the savory, rich punch of braised duck leg on one side, perfectly balanced by the sweet, creamy texture of roasted butternut squash (locally available at the Farmstand at Sylvester Manor) on the other. It’s elegant, complex and tastes like the height of the cozy season.
We know it’s a gourmet mission, but this week we’re encouraging you to take it on. It’s an exercise in patience and precision, and the result is an absolute showstopper you’ll be proud to serve — especially when you complete the experience by pairing it with a glass of 2023 Wölffer Estate “Caya” Cabernet Franc, the wine Ruiz selected for the course.
Blending creamy butternut squash with decadent braised duck proves to be the ultimate luxurious filling for Ruiz’s handmade ravioli. (Photos by Doug Young)
Tips for the Home Cook
- Since this is such an intensive dish, we asked chef Todd for his best advice to ensure success at home. Planning and temperature control are your best friends here.
- Prep Ahead: You’re braising duck and roasting squash anyway! Prepare each filling the day before you plan to assemble the ravioli. Prepping ahead breaks the process into manageable chunks.
- Keep It Cold: Ensuring the fillings and the pasta dough are very cold will make the assembly process much cleaner and smoother, especially when sealing the pockets.
- Don’t Skimp on Seasoning: Chef Todd insists: Taste your fillings! Adjust the salt, pepper, and nutmeg levels before adding them to the pasta. Once you seal the ravioli, you can’t fix the seasoning.
- Moisture is Key: As you work with the pasta machine, be sure to keep your sheets covered and protected from exposure to air. Keep any pasta sheets you aren’t actively filling covered with a damp towel or plastic wrap to prevent them from drying out and cracking.
Duck and butternut squash ravioli
Ingredients
For ravioli dough
- 1 cup semolina flour
- 1 cup 00 flour (or all-purpose flour)
- 3 large eggs
- 1 tbsp salt
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- extra flour for dusting
For braised duck leg filling
- 3 duck legs (bone-in, skin-on)
- 2 large shallots, large dice
- 2 cloves garlic, smashed
- 8 cremini mushrooms, large dice
- 3 stems rosemary
- 1 small bundle thyme
- 1 dry red wine (like cabernet sauvignon)
- 1 quart chicken stock
- salt and black pepper, to taste
For butternut squash filling
- 2 medium butternut squash
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp maple syrup
- 1/2 tsp nutmeg
- 1 cup pecorino cheese, fine grated
- salt and black pepper, to taste
Directions
For the dough
- Mound the flours and salt on a clean work surface and create a large well in the center.
- Add the eggs and olive oil into the well. Beat the wet ingredients with a fork, gradually incorporating flour from the inner walls of the well until a thick, shaggy paste forms.
- Knead the dough with your hands for 8-10 minutes until it is smooth, elastic, and bounces back when poked (like modeling clay).
- Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and let it rest at roomtemperature for at least 30 minutes.
For the duck filling
- Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). In a deep sauté pan or Dutch oven, season the duck legs generously with salt and pepper. Sear them, skin-side down, until the skin is golden and much of the fat has rendered (about 8-10 minutes).Remove excess fat if desired.
- Add the shallots, garlic, and mushrooms and allow them to caramelize slightly. Pour in the red wine to deglaze, scraping up any browned bits. Allow the wine to reduce slightly.
- Add the chicken stock and herb bundles (rosemary and thyme). Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover the pan, and place it into the oven. Braise for 2 hours until the meat is fork-tender.
- Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Remove the duck legs from the pan, saving the braising liquid. Pick and finely chop all duck meat. Place in a mixing bowl, add some of the strained braising liquid back in (2–4 tbsp), and check seasoning. Place the mixture into a disposable pastry bag and cool completely in the refrigerator.
For the butternut squash
- Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Cut the butternut squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Place the squash on a sheet pan, flesh side up. Drizzle with oil, salt, pepper, maple syrup, and nutmeg.
- Roast for about 1 hour, or until tender and caramelized. Remove and allow to rest for 10 minutes to cool.
- Scoop the flesh onto a cutting board and roughly chop. Transfer the squash to a mixing bowl, stir in the grated Pecorino cheese, and check the seasoning. Move this mixture to a separate disposable pastry bag and cool completely.
To assemble and cook
- Using a pasta machine, roll the rested dough out to the second-to-thinnest setting (about 1/16th of an inch thickness). Precut the sheets to roughly 24 inches by 5 inches.
- Lay one pasta sheet flat. Pipe the duck mixture onto one half of the sheet and the butternut squash mixture onto the opposite half, leaving space in between.
- Lightly brush the center seam with water. Fold the unfilled side of the pasta sheet evenly over the filled side, pressing to remove air and completely encase the fillings.
- Use a dowel to mark each ravioli, pressing gently to seal, and seal the two open ends. With a pasta cutter or knife, cut each ravioli and separate them gently. Place the finished ravioli onto a sheet pan dusted with semolina flour.
- Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a low boil (not a vigorous rolling boil). Gently place the ravioli into the water and allow them to cook for 3–4 minutes maximum. They will float when done.
- Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with brown butter and sage, or a simple reduction of the duck braising liquid.
