In the recent documentary about Martha Stewart, there is a scene where Stewart curtly tells a kitchen helper that she is not using the right knife to cut an orange. “You have to pay attention and be efficient,” she says. While many of us will be stepping up to the plate to make a side dish or an entire meal for the fast-approaching holidays, taking Stewart’s advice is a ‘good thing.’ Using the proper kitchen tools when preparing a dish will make all the difference.
This kitchen confidence may prove challenging to some home cooks when a recipe calls for using a torch to caramelize the top of a dessert. Fear not, for pastry chef Mary Pisanelli suggests using an all-purpose small butane torch (available at Williams Sonoma in Bridgehampton), which is not only a helpful kitchen gadget but an essential part of finishing her recipe for pumpkin crème brûlée. What is the key to achieving the amber-colored, crackling, sweet surface? That would be Turbinado sugar, a less processed, hint of molasses alternative to white sugar, which has a “richer flavor and larger crystals,” says Pisanelli, “It is a must-use when torching.”
With a degree in Culinary and Pastry Arts from the prestigious Johnson & Wales, Pisanelli’s recent seasonal stint at The Pridwin on Shelter Island frequently highlighted her talent with grand buffet-style dessert tables packed with homemade and beautifully appointed tiered cakes, locally sourced fruit pies (albeit the unforgettable key lime) and cookies.
“This was the first time I worked in the Hamptons,” says Pisanelli, a Cleveland native, “I loved the beauty of the ocean beaches, the sun setting over the Long Island Sound and, of course, the plethora of wine, vineyards and restaurants on the North and South forks.”
Keeping fall comfort flavors in mind, Pisanelli adds pumpkin puree to this custard classic and insists this dessert is “much easier and much quicker to prepare than any pie. It has the essence of pumpkin pie flavors, and the sugar cracking is reminiscent of the crunching of leaves beneath your feet,” she continues. “A dollop of whipped cream adds a smooth finish.”
A kitchen tip for success from the master herself:
“It’s important to use a water bath and bake at a low temperature to ensure even baking and to retain the moisture in the custard so the end product does not soufflé or crack,” instructs Pisanelli.
Are you opting for a smaller crew for dinner this Thanksgiving? Serving individual ramekins of pumpkin crème brûlée after the feast will surely make it memorable. Use your time wisely by preparing the custard the day before and finishing with sugar torching before serving.
“Keep the flame on low to medium and about 6 inches away from the surface,” suggests Pisanelli when using your handy kitchen torch, “and never keep the flame in one spot as you will burn, not caramelize the sugar.”
Whatever you do, don’t forget to use the right culinary tool for the job at hand. Martha may be watching.
Pumpkin Créme Brûlėe
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup pure pumpkin puree
- 1 1/4 cup half and half
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- 1/8 tsp ground ginger
- pinch cinnamon
- pinch ground nutmeg
- 8 egg yolks
- 1 1/4 cup heavy cream, 36% milk fat
- 1/3 cup brown sugar, packed
- 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 4 to 6 tbsp Turbinado sugar
Directions
- Preheat oven to 300°F.
- Whisk together pumpkin puree, half and half, granulated sugar and all the spices. Whisk in egg yolks until completely blended. Set aside.
- Whisk heavy cream, brown sugar, and vanilla extract together. Pour into a heavy gauge sauce pan and bring to a boil. Turn off heat.
- Slowly add hot sweetened cream to puree mixture, whisking rapidly to incorporate.
- Place 4 shallow ramekins in a flat 9 x 13 baking pan. This may be substituted for another size pan, just as long as the pan is at least 1-inch high, and will fit the baking dishes.
- Using a measuring cup, divide pumpkin mixture evenly between ramekins, approximately ¾ full.
- Open the preheated oven. Very carefully move the pan of filled ramekins to the center oven shelf. Pour hot water down into the baking pan until the water reaches halfway up the side of the ramekins.
- Bake until just set, 35-40 minutes. Gently remove pan from oven, and set on counter until cool. When cool, place in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
- When ready to serve, sprinkle approximately 1 ½ tablespoons Turbinado sugar over each custard using your fingertips to lightly shift the sugar evenly across the surface of the custard.
- With a chef’s torch, move the flame in a circular pattern until the surface is caramelized and amber in color. Serve with fresh sweetened whipped cream.