Cook This Now! Chef Mary Pisanelli’s pumpkin crème brûlée

In the recent documentary about Martha Stewart, there is a scene where Stewart curtly tells a kitchen helper that she is not using the right knife to cut an orange. “You have to pay attention and be efficient,” she says. While many of us will be stepping up to the plate to make a side dish or an entire meal for the fast-approaching holidays, taking Stewart’s advice is a ‘good thing.’ Using the proper kitchen tools when preparing a dish will make all the difference.

This kitchen confidence may prove challenging to some home cooks when a recipe calls for using a torch to caramelize the top of a dessert. Fear not, for pastry chef Mary Pisanelli suggests using an all-purpose small butane torch (available at Williams Sonoma in Bridgehampton), which is not only a helpful kitchen gadget but an essential part of finishing her recipe for pumpkin crème brûlée. What is the key to achieving the amber-colored, crackling, sweet surface? That would be Turbinado sugar, a less processed, hint of molasses alternative to white sugar, which has a “richer flavor and larger crystals,” says Pisanelli, “It is a must-use when torching.”

With a degree in Culinary and Pastry Arts from the prestigious Johnson & Wales, Pisanelli’s recent seasonal stint at The Pridwin on Shelter Island frequently highlighted her talent with grand buffet-style dessert tables packed with homemade and beautifully appointed tiered cakes, locally sourced fruit pies (albeit the unforgettable key lime) and cookies.

“This was the first time I worked in the Hamptons,” says Pisanelli, a Cleveland native, “I loved the beauty of the ocean beaches, the sun setting over the Long Island Sound and, of course, the plethora of wine, vineyards and restaurants on the North and South forks.”

Keeping fall comfort flavors in mind, Pisanelli adds pumpkin puree to this custard classic and insists this dessert is “much easier and much quicker to prepare than any pie. It has the essence of pumpkin pie flavors, and the sugar cracking is reminiscent of the crunching of leaves beneath your feet,” she continues. “A dollop of whipped cream adds a smooth finish.”

A kitchen tip for success from the master herself:

“It’s important to use a water bath and bake at a low temperature to ensure even baking and to retain the moisture in the custard so the end product does not soufflé or crack,” instructs Pisanelli.

Are you opting for a smaller crew for dinner this Thanksgiving? Serving individual ramekins of pumpkin crème brûlée after the feast will surely make it memorable. Use your time wisely by preparing the custard the day before and finishing with sugar torching before serving.

“Keep the flame on low to medium and about 6 inches away from the surface,” suggests Pisanelli when using your handy kitchen torch, “and never keep the flame in one spot as you will burn, not caramelize the sugar.”

Whatever you do, don’t forget to use the right culinary tool for the job at hand. Martha may be watching.