Cook This Now! George Motz’s Texas-style smoked burgers

Father’s Day is right around the corner, which means backyard grills are about to face their annual workout. But if you plan to throw down the same standard, uninspired beef patties this year, it’s time for an intervention. Move past the basic backyard fare and introduce a technique that brings serious depth, smoke, and flavor to the table.

If you want to understand the true anatomy of a perfect patty, you eventually run into George Motz. As a filmmaker, host of the Travel Channel’s Burger Land, and the undisputed “Burger Scholar,” Motz has dedicated his life to documenting regional American food. His definitive guide, The Great American Burger Book (celebrating its 10th year since first publication), tracks everything from the Iowa Loose Meat Sandwich to the iconic Oklahoma Fried Onion Burger.

(Photos by Doug Young)

While Motz’s burger journey spans the entire country, his roots remain firmly planted right here out East. “I grew up between Garden City and Quogue,” Motz shares. “Now my entire family lives out East year-round, and I live in Brooklyn.” In fact, Motz captured the spirit of his outdoor cooking methods right on the water at the Surf Club in Quogue — a place deeply woven into his personal history. For his cookbook, photographer Doug Young captured the iconic imagery of Motz smoking his signature burgers right on the club’s deck. “I’ve spent every summer there for 57 years, worked as a lifeguard and in the cafeteria, and my family has been at the club for over 75 years.” It was during his travels for his landmark documentary Hamburger America that Motz encountered a technique that completely flipped his view of outdoor cooking. While he generally prefers a hot griddle indoors over an open-flame backyard grill — noting that “grease equals flavor” — smoking offered something entirely different.

That difference is what first caught Motz’s attention. “I came upon a butcher in Houston who was smoking burgers in the back of his place. The burgers stayed in the smoker for an hour, were juicy, and tasted great. If you do it right, you can create an incredible smoky flavor — a smoke ring. There is minimal shrinkage, all the moisture stays in the beef, but the key is that smoke.”

That concept might sound surprising to traditional backyard grillers, but Motz treats it as the ultimate culinary ace up your sleeve. ” I love it because it’s a great party trick — no one sees it coming, and they are usually shocked by the results.”

(Photos by Doug Young)

That is the beauty of this method: it defies typical burger expectations. Barbecue purists usually reserve the low-and-slow treatment for tough cuts like brisket or ribs to break down muscle fibers. A premium, fresh-ground 80/20 chuck blend doesn’t need that breakdown, but it greedily absorbs the rich, savory essence of wet hickory chips. When you lift the lid after an hour, you won’t find a dry, shriveled puck. Instead, you get an incredibly juicy, structurally perfect burger carrying a distinct, pink smoke ring and a deep, wood-fired flavor you just can’t get from a standard propane tank. Unlike high-heat grilling, where a split-second distraction can ruin the meat, smoking gives you a wide safety margin. As Motz puts it: “Once you set up the smoker and get those patties in there, it’s time for a drink. I usually advise people not to drink and focus when making burgers, but this is such a slow cooker that it would be nearly impossible to screw up.” 

Tips for the Home Cook

• Watch the Clock and the Salt: Hand-form fresh, never-frozen 80/20 chuck into thick, 6-ounce patties and keep them cold. Only salt both sides just before they hit the grill grate. If you salt the meat too early, your patties will stiffen up and lose their tender texture.
• Trust the Indirect Heat: Set up your classic Weber kettle grill by pushing all the hot coals entirely to one side. Your patties belong on the opposite side of the grill rack, never crossing past the halfway mark. Top the coals with pre-soaked hickory chips, close the lid immediately, and use the vents to maintain a steady 225°F.
• Fight the Urge to Peek: Keep the lid down. Every time you open the grill to check on things, precious smoke escapes and drops the internal temperature. Check your vents and smoke production every 15 minutes, flip the patties exactly at the 25-minute mark, and let the indirect heat do the work.
• Keep the Toppings Stripped Down: Leave the lettuce, tomato, and fancy condiments in the fridge. “Barbecue is a place where lettuce does not belong,” Motz notes. To honor the Texas origin of this dish, serve these masterpiece patties exclusively on a toasted, buttered, squishy potato roll with a good barbecue sauce, pickles, and a pile of sautéed Vidalia onions.