Cook This Now! South Shore littleneck clams with butter beans

For anyone who grew up on the South Shore of Long Island, littleneck clams hold a special place in our hearts.

There is over 150 years of history in these bivalves, much of it tied to the legendary Doxsee family. Their presence in America dates back to 1743, but it was James Harvey Doxsee who founded the iconic enterprise in Islip. By 1865, the family was processing “Doxsee Pure Little Neck Clams” and exporting them worldwide from a factory capable of producing 400 bushels per day. While the Doxsee Sea Clam Company eventually ceased operations in 2012 following the damage from Hurricane Sandy, their legacy remains the gold standard for the industry.

Today, that tradition continues through local experts like Colin Mather, owner of the iconic Seafood Shop in Wainscott, where he sources littlenecks from Shinnecock, farmed by local clammers. Further west in Sayville, Frank Palermo at Claws also sources locally from the Great South Bay.

Clamming has been a big part of Long Island’s food industry for almost two centuries. (left photos courtesy of Bob Doxsee; right photo by Doug Young)

“This time of year, we source all our littlenecks from local guys on the South Shore,” Frank says. “Whether shucked raw, steamed, fried, or grilled, you just can’t beat a good, simple white wine butter sauce. I like to use fresh herbs from the garden myself — a splash of white wine, good Irish butter, fresh garden sage, a bit of pancetta or smoked bacon, some chopped scallions, and garlic. Just don’t forget a loaf of crispy semolina Italian bread.”

While Frank’s classic preparation is hard to beat, this version leans toward a heartier profile for those chilly spring evenings. This one-pan meal balances the creaminess of the beans with the briny snap of local littlenecks, lifted by a dash of fish sauce and spring onions. It also features a tip we picked up from the team at Shelter Island’s Leon 1909: adding lovage. This underrated herb has an intense, savory celery-and-anise profile that pairs perfectly with the clams’ saltiness. It really elevates the dish from a standard bistro meal to something more unique and “chef-led.”

Adding parsley to the dish is certainly more than fine, but our pro tip is adding lovage — the celery-meets-anise, more intensely flavored herb — instead. (Photos by Doug Young)

And then, of course, there are the butter beans. If you’re old enough to remember that wacky 1983 B-52’s track, “Butter Bean,” the lyrics still ring true: “Gramps and grannies, kids in their teens / Junkyard dogs and campus queens / Yeah, everybody loves butter beans.” Fred Schneider was right — especially in this dish.

Tips for the Home Cook

• The Lovage Advantage: If you can find lovage at your local farm stand, use it. Its flavor is much deeper than parsley’s—almost like “wild celery”—making the seafood broth incredibly complex.
• The Umami Secret: The fish sauce serves as a hidden seasoning that anchors the clams’ brine without adding a “fishy” taste. For the best local results, look no further than L&W Market in Bridgehampton for their house-made sauce under the moniker #kimchijews.
• Substitution Tip: If lovage isn’t in season, flat-leaf parsley is the classic alternative, though the dish will have a milder, brighter finish.