Cook This Now! Alex Guarnaschelli’s braised fennel with golden raisins

There is a specific moment in the transition from late winter to early spring when our palates begin to crave the light, fragrant notes of the garden, even as the ground remains stubbornly cold. It’s a teetering line, and nothing walks it quite as gracefully as fennel.

Beloved for its crisp texture and that unmistakable, faint licorice-reminiscent aroma, fennel is the ultimate “friendly” vegetable. It offers a mellow foundation that perks up everything from a raw, shaved salad to a robust braise. It delivers the heartiness we demand from winter produce, but when you hit it with heat, it caramelizes into something super sweet and delicate — a true harbinger of spring.

A familiar face in our neck of the woods shows us exactly how to handle this versatile bulb. Chef Alex Guarnaschelli, a longtime Hamptons resident, understands the rhythms of our local seasons as well as anyone. Most know her as a formidable Iron Chef, a sharp-witted judge on “Chopped,” or the host of “Supermarket Stakeout.” But before the Food Network cameras found her, Guarnaschelli was forging a legendary path through the Michelin-starred kitchens of France, including a tenure at Guy Savoy’s eponymous three-star institution. Since 2003, she has served as the executive chef at New York City’s Butter, where her point of view — spotlighting local ingredients — has made her one of America’s most accomplished culinary voices.

She acknowledges that fennel can be a “love it or hate it” ingredient. “Like dill, fennel inspires either adoration or a mild, dismissing grimace,” Guarnaschelli says. “I absolutely love it. I enjoy it thinly sliced with fresh orange, sea salt, and some olive oil.”

For those still on the fence about that anise punch, Guarnaschelli suggests that the stovetop is the best place to find common ground. “Because braising is a method that requires some time, the anise flavor that some people may not enjoy when sampling raw fennel melts away when you cook it,” she notes. “The addition of the white wine really rounds it out with nice acidity.”

This week’s recipe transforms the humble bulb into a sophisticated side dish that is simple, nutritious and exactly what we want to be eating right now as we anxiously await the big thaw.

(Photos by Doug Young)

For more inspiring recipes from Guarnaschelli, pick up a copy of her latest tome, Italian American Forever, available at Book Hampton. A slight variation of this recipe can also be found in the LVIS cookbook by Florence Fabricant, who suggests adding heavy cream at the end. Trust us, she’s right!

Tips for the Home Cook

• Waste Not: Those feathery fronds aren’t just for show. They have a delicate flavor similar to dill; chop them up and toss them into a vinaigrette or over grilled fish for an instant aromatic boost.
• The “Safety” Slide: Alex’s technique of pulling the pan off the heat before adding oil or wine is a pro move. It prevents oil from reaching its smoking point too quickly and prevents wine from “flaming” or splattering when it hits a hot pan.
• Selection Is Key: Look for fennel bulbs that are heavy for their size, bright white, and firm. If the stalks are limp or the bulb has soft brown spots, it’s past its prime.
• Wine Choice: Use a wine you’d actually drink. The current vintage of pinot grigio from Channing Daughters in Bridgehampton pairs beautifully with the raisins’ sweetness.