Late-season produce is the best part of September at East End farmstands. There are still plenty of ears of corn to go around, and you know what that means: It’s chowder time.
The history of chowder on the East End is as rich as the dish itself, evolving from the French fishing stews called chaudière. The tradition was adapted by early American settlers, who combined it with native ingredients like corn, a crucial crop for the Montaukett and other Indigenous communities. For centuries, this simple, hearty meal provided sustenance for local farmers and fishermen. One of the most famous local versions is “Bonac” chowder, a recipe passed down through generations of the isolated fishing community in Springs.
This version is a favorite of East End resident, chef, and public television host George Hirsch, who has been a culinary fixture for over 25 years. He tells us that this recipe is one of his most requested, about harnessing the simple “goodness from the earth,” especially with “our candy-sweet corn and famous Long Island East End Yukon Potatoes.” He adds that the rich, well-drained soil here makes for some of the best produce in the world.
As we embrace “second summer”, this is a perfect dish for a casual, late afternoon gathering outside, a warm and comforting bowl to enjoy as the sun begins to set.
Tips for the Home Cook
- Sourcing is key: George emphasizes that the best chowder starts with the best corn. He recommends looking for ears with a dark-colored, moist-feeling silk and husks that are tightly wrapped around the cob.
- Support your local farm: On the East End, you can find incredible corn at farm stands like Pike’s in Sagaponack.
- The power of pancetta: George notes that adding the savory pancetta is a great way to give this chowder its richness and make it a hearty meal
- Southforker corn prep tip: To slice corn kernels mess-free, you can use a smaller bowl placed upside down inside a larger bowl. The inverted smaller bowl creates a stable platform for the ear of corn, and the larger bowl catches all the kernels as you slice them off.
George Hirsch’s farmstand corn chowder
Ingredients
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 4 tbsp pancetta or bacon, chopped
- 3/4 cup sweet onion, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
- 1/2 cup carrot, peeled and chopped
- 1/2 cup celery, chopped
- 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
- 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
- 2 cups fresh corn kernels
- 1 cup Yukon Gold potatoes, well-scrubbed and chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
- 1/2 tsp hot sauce
- 1/2 cup half-and-half
- pinch of sea salt
- freshly ground pepper
- 1 tbsp fresh parley, chopped
Directions
- In a large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or bacon and cook until lightly browned. Add the onion and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it becomes translucent. Stir in the chopped garlic during the last 2 minutes, being careful not to let it burn.
- Add the chopped carrot and celery to the pot and continue to cook for another three to four minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and cook for two minutes, stirring constantly. Slowly pour in the chicken or vegetable broth, whisking to prevent any lumps from forming.
- Bring the soup to a boil, then add the corn, potatoes, thyme, hot sauce and bay leaf. Reduce the heat and let the soup simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until all the vegetables are tender.
- Just before serving, gently warm the half-and-half in a separate small pan and stir it into the chowder. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper, then top with fresh chopped parsley.
