Grab-and-go, which describes the task of being too busy to make decisions and wanting lunch offerings available in a help-yourself refrigerator, is something many food and specialty markets have adopted. Not that the idea isn’t convenient, albeit a bit soulless. Taking a moment to peruse a chalkboard menu of sandwich specials with clever names isn’t always an option, as many of us have limited time before returning from a lunch break.
Opting for a quart of vibrant green, silky smooth, asparagus and leek soup from Carissa’s Bakery might up the grab-and-go game, primarily due to its seasonality availability. “We introduced this soup in 2018 at our Newtown Lane in East Hampton location,” says chef Laura Lopez of Carissa’s Bakery, using her recipe. “It became such a favorite that we’ve brought it back every spring at the first sign of the season.”
Marilee’s Farmstand (located at 698 Sagg Main St., Sagaponack and reopening this weekend) carries some of the most beautiful asparagus around. (Photos by Doug Young)
That season involves locally grown asparagus, something many die-hard fans anxiously await to find among the somewhat spare offerings at recently re-opened farm stands (Marilee’s Farmstand, which is reopening for the season this Saturday, in Sagaponack has probably the most coveted.) “We grow some of the asparagus ourselves in our organic garden,” says Lopez, “along with wild garlic that we use it in a variety of dishes.” The marriage of this cultivated vegetable with a mellow-flavored member of the allium family, leeks, makes this soup an excellent starter for a Mother’s Day brunch. Suppose you find yourself staring at a sold-out shelf at either of the three locations of Carissa’s (Hamptonites are in a rush, remember). In that case, Lopez has generously shared her self-described “very approachable” vegan recipe and a few tips for the home cook, whether you are hosting the mother of all brunches this year or celebrating spring with some friends.
“Don’t let the leeks or aromatics brown,” advises Lopez, “just sweat them gently until translucent to preserve their delicate flavor and brightness.” And what would soup be without bread? Let’s just say this is a grab-and-go must at this renowned bakery, a semifinalist for this year’s “Outstanding Bakery” by the James Beard Foundation (read more about that from Emily Toy here).
“Our sourdough and baguette are timeless pairings for this soup,” suggests Lopez, who has been a solid member of founders Carissa Waechter and Lori Chemla’s team since 2016.
“We’ve also recently introduced a gluten-free loaf with a seeded crust; it adds a beautiful crunch and has quickly become a favorite among our guests.”
We here at Southforker think this asparagus and leek soup would be lovely chilled, especially as we head into summer, and Lopez agrees.
“It’s vibrant and fresh, and the color is perfect for warmer days.”
Asparagus and leek soup
Ingredients
For the vegetable stock
- 2 large leeks dark green tops halved and washed thoroughly
- 2 bunches asparagus ends (cut about 1-2 inches from the bottom), roughly chopped
- 2 gallons water
- salt and black pepper, to taste
For the soup
- 3 large leeks (white and green parts), thinly sliced
- 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
- 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 2 bunches asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
- olive oil (generous amount for sweating vegetables)
- salt and black pepper, to taste
- fresh lemon juice, to taste
For the garnish
- 1/2 cup crème fraîche
- 1 lime or lemon zested and juiced
Directions
For the vegetable stock
- Combine leek tops and asparagus ends in large stockpot. Add 2 gallons of water and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook uncovered for 1 hour.
- Strain and discard solids. Set stock aside.
For the soup
- In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced leeks, shallots and garlic. Sweat until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.
- Add the asparagus pieces and sweat gently until just tender and bright green. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
- In batches (or using an immersion blender), blend the leek-asparagus mixture with the prepared vegetable stock until smooth. Return to the pot and season with additional salt, black pepper and fresh lemon juice, to taste.
For the garnish
- In a small bowl, mix crème fraîche with lime zest and juice (or lemon if preferred).
- Ladle soup into bowls and swirl in a spoonful of the citrus crème fraîche to garnish. Serve warm or chilled.
