When Leo Daunt unlocked the doors at The Bird (47 S. Elmwood Ave., Montauk, 631-668-5833) for the season on March 26, he did more than just re-open the Montauk landmark — he brought the neighborhood back to life. It is the kind of homecoming that calls for a proper celebration: a fresh wine list curated by Bodhi Landa, a revamped cocktail menu from Dylan Snyder, and — naturally — a keg of Guinness on tap right on time for the Montauk St. Patrick’s Day Parade (slainté!). Yet, as the seasonal shifts bring new energy to the room, some things remain sacred.
On those crisp, early spring days when the Atlantic fog and the wind off Montauk Point still carries a bite, there is no better refuge than a bowl of their classic French onion soup. It serves as the ultimate starter for a quiet, coastal evening, anchored by a rich, homemade chicken stock that adds depth of flavor only patience and time simmering can provide.
Leo Daunt (far left), owner of The Bird and Daunt’s Albatross, opened for the season the final weekend of March with a new cocktail list, spiffed up wine list and both new faves and old beloveds on the menu, like their rich and satisfying French onion soup. (Photography by Doug Young)
Chef Chris Klos knows that when it comes to a classic, you don’t reinvent the wheel — you just source the best possible ingredients. As Leo attests, the secret lies in the foundation. “What makes the soup really special is that our house stock serves as the foundational broth,” he says, noting how perfectly it pairs with crusty bread from TomCat Bakery and a high-quality Gruyère that melts into a nutty, golden blanket.
If you’re enjoying this at the bar, Leo insists on a Guinness pairing. But don’t rush the bartender. To get that iconic creamy head, you need the two-part pour. Start with a clean glass at a 45-degree angle, fill it three-quarters full, let it settle for a few moments (again, we’re in no rush here!), then top it off. It’s a lesson in patience that pays off in every sip.
There is a quiet magic in that first spoonful — the glorious mess of the first dunk and the inevitable, mile-high cheese pull that follows. It’s the kind of moment that makes you pause, take a deep breath and let the rich, fragrant broth warm you from the inside out. (Seriously, get the iPhone ready to catch that pull!) It’s a reminder that while the Atlantic might still be cold, inside these walls, it is always the right season for comfort.
Tips for the Home Cook
- The Slow Burn: Caramelization is a marathon. Keep the heat medium-low and stir often; you want deep mahogany, not burnt black.
- The Bread Barrier: Use a thick slice of high-quality sourdough or baguette. Flimsy bread will disintegrate into the broth before you finish your first spoonful.
- Stock Secrets: While The Bird uses a labor-intensive homemade stock at the restaurant, you can mimic that richness at home by simmering store-bought low-sodium stock with a few chicken wings, a bay leaf, and a splash of dry sherry for 20 minutes before using.
The Bird’s French onion soup
Ingredients
- 4 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
- 4 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
- 1/2 cup dry sherry or dry white wine
- 6 cups high-quality chicken stock (homemade, preferably!)
- 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
- salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
- 4 thick slices of TomCat Bakery sourdough or baguette (or similar high-quality bread)
- 1 1/2 cups Gruyere cheese
- finely minced chives, for garnish
Directions
- In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 35–45 minutes until the onions are soft and a deep caramel brown.
- Add the minced garlic and thyme. Cook for another 2 minutes until fragrant.
- Pour in the sherry (or wine) and use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the brown bits (the fond) from the bottom of the pot. Let the liquid reduce by half.
- Add the chicken stock and balsamic vinegar. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and let the flavors meld for 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- While the soup simmers, lightly toast the bread slices in the oven or a toaster until golden and firm.
- Preheat your broiler. Ladle the soup into four oven-safe crocks. Top each with a slice of toasted bread and a generous handful of Gruyère.
- Place the crocks on a baking sheet and broil for 3–5 minutes until the cheese is melted, bubbly, and toasted brown in spots.
- Sprinkle with finely minced chives and serve immediately alongside a properly poured stout.
