Unlike New England’s favorite, Manhattan clam chowder sometimes gets a bad rap, even referred to as seafood minestrone, or as James Beard famously described, “. . . that rather horrendous vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped into it.”
This soup rebel also had a few aliases like Coney Island clam chowder and Fulton Market clam chowder, most likely inspired by Italian and Portuguese descendants who populated the city from the late 1800s to the early 1900s and the increasing popularity of tomatoes. When chef Alessandro Filippini included it on Delmonico’s menu in New York, the tomato-based clam chowder had officially arrived, with the recipe published in his popular cookbook The Table: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It back in 1889.
Although tomato-based clam chowders have existed in New York since at least the second half of the 19th century, most sources claim that the first use of the term “Manhattan” clam chowder was in 1934, and most likely a dig from New England ‘chowda’ purists.
Don’t worry. The name stuck, as did its enduring flavors, as can be attested at Bostwick’s Chowder House in East Hampton, which is well known for its red version, loaded with locally shucked clams and a broth with a kick. And while the beloved, laid-back seafood shack — in business for over 30 years — is on its well-deserved winter break ’til March 20 (fittingly, the first day of spring), those craving the popular staple can give this coveted recipe a go at home.
(Top left) Bostwick’s Seafood Market manager Wesley Peterson (left) with Bostwick’s on the Harbor co-owner and chef Damien O’Donnell. (Photos credit: Doug Young)
And what about the ongoing Manhattan vs. New England debate? “You’re never going to get that fresh clam taste and that brininess that you would in the Manhattan tomato-based soup,” says chef Damien O’Donnell confidently, who joined the Bostwick’s culinary team in March of 2022 at Bostwick’s on the Harbor in Springs. Although the recipe (co-owner and chef Chris Eggart’s version) contains similar ingredients to the classic, O’Donnell insists it’s the “technique involved, and the hands that are creating is what makes it different than others; the love that you put into it.”
If you find that sentiment not inspiring enough to make some clam chowder for your upcoming Valentine, you still have a chance to grab a quart or two at Bostwick’s Seafood Market next door to the chowder house, which is offering lunch and dinner menu faves and take-out specials through this weekend (last day is Sunday, Feb. 9; reopening in March). Provisions are also available, making meal planning convenient.
“We aim to be a one-stop shop where you can get everything you need,” says Wesley Peterson, who runs the market that carries cold salads, dry goods, fresh produce and locally sourced fresh fish and mollusks. (Ask about their catering services for the upcoming season, which rumor has it will include chef Damien’s popular Mongolian barbecue ribs as a menu option.)
Enjoy the last leg of winter with this heart-warming chowder with a tale to tell. Don’t forget to garnish with oyster crackers, the one truce both recipes agree on.
Bostwick’s Manhattan clam chowder
Ingredients
- 3 oz butter
- 1 1/2 cups chopped celery
- 2 cups chopped onion
- 1 1/2 cups chopped carrots
- 1 1/4 tbsp minced garlic
- 6 oz tomato paste
- 3 cups diced tomatoes
- 24 oz tomato juice
- 2 cups Russet potatoes, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 tsp crushed red pepper
- 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
- 1/2 tsp Tabasco
- 2 tsp salt
- 1 tsp white pepper
- 1 1/2 tbsp fresh parsley
- 1 tbsp fresh thyme
- 1 tbsp fresh basil
- 2 tsp oregano
- 30 chowder clams and juice
Directions
- Wash clams to rinse off any sand or debris.
- Place the glams in a pot and add 1 quart of water. Cover the pot with a lid and steam the clams until they are opened (about 7 minutes).
- Remove the clams from the liquid. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve and set aside.
- Once they are cooled enough to handle, remove the clams from the shell and give them a rough chop to your desired size.
- Give the pot a rinse to remove any sand or broken shell debris.
- Add the butter, onions, carrots, celery and garlic to the pot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes or until vegetables are tender.
- Place the tomato paste, diced tomatoes, clam juice broth, tomato juice, crushed pepper and potatoes in the pot. Stir to combine. Bring to a simmer.
- Stir in the Worcestershire, Tabasco and all four herbs. Finally stir in the chopped clams.
- Simmer for 5 more minutes. Ladle into bowls and serve with oyster crackers and garlic bread. Enjoy!
