Cook This Now! Caramelized sweet potatoes and squash

The Hamptons landscape shifts dramatically after Labor Day, transitioning from the high summer abundance of flowers and fruits to a generous season of root vegetables and squash. These autumnal gems, in tones of orange and earthy brown, now demand our culinary attention.

Few local voices capture this culinary shift like author Stacy Dermont. Her philosophy — developed as an Appalachian farm girl and rooted in homegrown goodness — guides The Hamptons Cookbook: Seasonal Recipes Pairing Land and Sea, an essential tome to seasonal cooking that has been in its second printing since its debut in 2020.

Stacy’s approach to the fall harvest, showcased in this week’s recipe for caramelized sweet potatoes and squash, is all about simplicity and purity. As she explains, “I used to enjoy a marshmallow-topped sweet potato dish as much as the next kid, but nowadays I prefer to walk that sweet/savory line.” She achieves this by relying on the natural sweetness of local produce — like Marilee Foster‘s fall crop of golden sweet potatoes and squash from Share the Harvest Farm — pairing them with the bright, sharp edge of onion essence to deepen the flavor.

This cooking method is a basic, flexible foundation for any fall vegetable pulled from the earth. “It’s just a fundamental roasted vegetable recipe,” Dermont says, “cooked at 400°F, which is probably a better temperature for a lot of vegetables, and it just varies from 20 minutes to 40 minutes, depending on the vegetable.” And for those who dread vegetable prep, she offers excellent advice when working with the bounty from local farm stands: “I particularly like the delicata squash because you don’t have to peel it and its striped exterior is just so pretty.”

For easier prep, Dermont recommends using delicata squash, as its outer peel is edible. (Photos by Doug Young)

Dermont brought this seasonal philosophy to the Williams-Sonoma store in Bridgehampton on Sunday, October 12, where she demonstrated an admired recipe from her cookbook. The store serves as a vital community hub for cooking enthusiasts, hosting popular classes every Sunday at noon on topics from knife skills to Thanksgiving sides. Store General Manager Shari Courbois, a 15-year fixture in the outpost, notes that they actively “promote a sense of community and local engagement, and keep people coming into our doors and feeling like they’re not just in a corporate retail shop.” It’s a mission that seamlessly connects great local food with the precise tools and techniques needed to bring it into your own kitchen.

Tips for the Home Cook

• Prepping Winter Squash: When handling tougher varieties like acorn squash, Stacy advises using a heavy hand: “It’s really not hard to cut. Just use a heavy knife and a large spoon to scoop the seeds out.” For the easiest prep, choose delicata squash, as its skin is edible and does not require peeling.
• The Right Temperature: While the recipe calls for 425 degrees, Stacy suggests reducing the heat if you are concerned about charring. Keep an eye on the oven, as cooking times for root vegetables can vary significantly.
• Embrace the Onion: The onion essence is key to achieving that perfect sweet/savory balance. Do not skip processing the onion with the maple syrup and oil; this creates a finer coating that caramelizes beautifully.
• Add a Spicy Kick: For an exciting heat, substitute the olive or grapeseed oil in the onion mixture with Williams-Sonoma’s spicy chili pizza oil. It provides a guaranteed kick and depth of flavor.
• Stacy’s Pairing: For a drink pairing, try a light, slightly sweet India Pale Ale, such as Montauk Brewing Company Session IPA. If you prefer wine, a spicy and balanced rosé, such as Palmer Vineyards Merlot Rosé, is also an excellent match.