Southside Sips: Charred Citrus Paloma

One of the worst mistakes that home cocktail makers suffer: Treating garnish like an afterthought.

Cocktail garnishes aren’t just jangly extras from a jar; they have a function that, when employed properly, add dimension and depth to a drink. A muddle or smack of mint or basil leaves; the oils that spray nearly imperceptibly from a citrus peel; the white anchovy nestled in an olive to add that extra kick of brine and sea. It all matters, and it all adds up to a drinking experience that’s got that little… extra. In the good way.

At Fresno (11 Fresno Place, East Hampton, 631-324-8700), beverage director and barman Quinton Burke knows the power of garnish, and in this riff on the classic Mexican Paloma cocktail, adds a dash of culinary inspiration to up the ante here: Grilling.

If you’ve never grilled fruit, you’re in a for a treat this summer. Here, the sugars in flame-licked citrus — both grapefruit and lime — become caramelized as well as a bit roasty, adding an intensity to their juice that goes beyond the normal squeeze of fresh fruit. For both the juice in the drink and garnish atop it, it’s a little though-of method that adds a lot to the final result.

To grill your citrus, cut them in half and place directly over a medium-high flame for about 2 minutes. For the slices, indirect heat is best (or, better yet, use a grill basket so you don’t risk dropping your garnish into the flames!).