Cook This Now! Fresno’s cazuela roasted halibut

With all the time-saving benefits of preparing one-pot dinners, the contents must still be plated and served into individual bowls. Why not directly build an oven-to-table meal using local seafood, late-season vegetables, and comforting broth in those bowls?

This recipe for cazuela (the name of both the traditional South American dish and the vessel it’s cooked in) roasted halibut from East Hampton’s Fresno does just that.

Finding the right vessel to prepare the dish in is key, and an artisan-crafted cazuela (available at Williams Sonoma in Bridgehampton) is the perfect choice to begin. In Spain, these rustic terracotta dishes have been a kitchen staple for centuries, used to prepare many recipes from tapas to braises. Its most notable attribute is the ability to preserve warmth, thanks to the heat-retaining earthenware construction and flexibility.

“If you’re preparing this recipe for six at home, you can assemble each dish individually,” says Fresno’s owner, Michael Nolan. “They can all go in the oven while you’re hanging out with your guests. Fifteen minutes later, you have a hearty, flavorful broth with perfectly cooked fish and vegetables.”

The popular East Hampton eatery features this menu staple year-round, highlighting what’s in season and available, all under the helm of chef Jesus Gonzales. A true ‘rising in the ranks’ story (beginning as a dishwasher at Fresno’s sister restaurant, Beacon, in Sag Harbor), Gonzales embraces gluten-free menu options by using glass noodles and a miso dashi broth to bring an Asian profile to the comforting dish, accentuated by shiitake mushrooms from Farm and Forage‘s mushroom maven Jonathan Bernard and local bok choy. While halibut works well here (sourced from Braun Seafood based in Cutchogue or Lighthouse Seafood in Hampton Bays), tilefish and codfish are good substitutes.

“Be careful not to overcook the fish,” instructs Gonzales, “and don’t open the oven during cooking.”

Yes, chef! Regarding the broth used here, miso dashi might seem complicated to the home cook, but it’s nothing to fret over. Miso soup (its closest comparison) is a broth made of strips of dried kelp, or kombu, and dried smoked bonito flakes (aka katsuobushi). Miso, a traditional Japanese fermented soybean paste, adds punchy salt and umami flavors once whisked in, and is easy to source.

If making your own dashi is a little overwhelming, fear not! Many markets carry instant dashi granules sold in conveniently sized jars or packets and are available in varying strengths. Simply combine water and the dashi granules in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and whisk in miso paste. Still apprehensive? Boxed and reputable organic miso broth is also available at most markets.

Then there is the always-a good-idea option to try this dish at Fresno in person before taking on the cooking challenge at home. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this past May, the East Hampton Village dining fixture is open year-round and has all the comforts of a neighborhood restaurant, including an intimately lit dining room. Taking on full ownership in October of 2023, Nolan consulted his wife and lighting designer, Helen Gifford, to implement interior design updates (another reason to visit).

“I wanted to do something impactful but still keep the warm, welcoming feeling,” explains Nolan, “and we did that by wrapping the space in a darker color and installing custom lighting.” Guests immediately responded to the changes, thanks to the 20 custom-designed Helenbilt “urchin” light sculptures that create a variegated lighting effect in the dining room. “It feels kind of cozy now, which is nice,” says Nolan.

If you do end up preparing Gonzalez’s cazuelas yourself, serving individual portions of roasted halibut for friends will undoubtedly be a most welcoming touch, just be sure to finish it with a dash of tamari (or good soy sauce), as Gonzalez recommends, to really bring all those umami flavors on home. Pair it with a bright, equally aromatic white, like a 2022 Cuvee Tropical from Bridgehampton’s Channing Daughters to keep with the local ingredients theme. “Chris [Tracy] always has fascinating wine and uses unusual grapes and processes,” says Nolan.

Happy cooking!