The original Hamptons steakhouse remains a staple for a reason.
THE GIST: Opened in 1969 by Broadway performer Bobby Van, it quickly became an established eatery and watering hole among locals, transient Manhattanites and celebs, beloved for its robust chophouse style menu and easy yet elevated ambiance. The first of a small chain of restaurants, with three locations in New York City and two in Washington, D.C., current owner Joe Smith and executive chef and butcher extraordinaire John Stella, maintain a consistently classic steakhouse experience.
THE VIBE: Bobby Van’s is the bustling, buzzy yet approachable pinnacle of East End dining. Trays upon trays of martinis and goblets of sauvignon blanc, whole steamed lobsters and plates of porterhouse are served up expertly to guests, whether they be locals or luminaries. Wicker chairs and white tablecloths dot the dining room, which spills out through open French doors toward the sidewalk on Main Street. Lively and clubby, it offers a just-right dose of the Hamptons dining scene.
THE FOOD: While steakhouse classics are central to the menu — with more than half a dozen different cuts available, plus pork, lamb and veal options — mains also include an array of pastas, seafood and chicken dishes as well as myriad sides suited for sharing. Crab cakes, steamed mussels and beef carpaccio rank among the appetizers while a lobster roll, burger and French dip round out the sandwich options. There are also plenty of oversized, protein-packed salads that can easily double as a dinner.
Clams Casino Don’t let the size fool you. These little jewels pack some unexpectedly big flavor. Six cherrystone clams are stuffed with a garlicky breadcrumb mixture filled with bits of bacon and baked until golden brown. Served on a small metal sizzle plate and swimming in red pepper butter, the semi-sweet brininess of the clam shines through immediately.
Asian Chicken Salad
Equal portions of shredded Napa cabbage, crunchy wonton croutons and crisp romaine are tossed with largely diced pieces of chicken breast roasted in a sweet chili sauce. The whole dish gets dressed in a sesame-plum dressing, piled high and topped with a bed of crispy rice noodles. It’s a generous star staple among the appetizers and a welcome break from typical so-so salads.
Bone-in Ribeye
Nearly two inches thick, this cut of USDA Prime beef clocks in at around 24 ounces and is dry aged for nearly a month. A showstopper of a steak, the perfectly seasoned and seared slab is sliced and fanned out on a large platter, lending itself amazingly well for sharing. Robust, juicy and tender, the richly beefy, well-marbled ribeye is served with a cutesy little fricassee of fresh roasted squash, if you don’t feel like ordering a side.
Baked Potato The size of a small football, this spud is soft and fluffy on the inside with a slightly crispy skin on the outside. It’s served with a duo of sauces on the side: smooth, chive sour cream and quite possibly the creamiest, most velvety, will-melt-as-soon-as-it-hits-the-plate butter found in the Hamptons.
Bobby Van’s Steak Sauce While you’re more than welcome to add on house made béarnaise, au poivre, bordelaise or horseradish sauce for your steak for just a couple extra bucks more, BV’s specially bottled sauce is a tantalizingly tangy option that feels like a pungent barbecue sauce had a baby with A.1. It’s a nice, zesty reprieve from the otherwise heavy sauce options.
Shrimp Cocktail Among the ample and familiar raw bar items, this may very well be the biggest crowd pleaser. Less is so much more here as four wild-caught colossal Gulf shrimp are deftly cleaned, prepared, chilled and served over ice with bright and zingy, but not-too-spicy, cocktail sauce and a big squeeze of lemon.
Creamed Spinach Rather than cooking the bejesus out of it and smothering it with cream and seasoning, Stella shows restraint here, ensuring the veg remains the focal point of the dish. A more-than-generous portion, both the texture and the flavor of the spinach remains light and balanced, and you’ll find yourself spooning more onto your plate as the meal progresses.
Bobby Van’s
2393 Montauk Highway, Bridgehampton
631-537-0590
Lunch: noon to 3 p.m. every day
Dinner: 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday;
5 to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour: 4 to 6 p.m.