Montauk’s iconic eatery is the quintessential summer dining destination.
THE GIST Nestled in on Fort Pond Bay, this iconic Montauk eatery was originally founded almost a century ago by the Duryea family, widely beloved for consistently serving freshly caught local seafood in a low-key takeout situation. Now owned by investor Marc Rowan and managed by Alchemy Hospitality for nearly a decade — with sister operations at Lulu Kitchen & Bar in Sag Harbor and another Duryea’s in Orient Point — the restaurant’s outdoor waterfront dining on the Lobster Deck is the ultimate epitome of the upscale yet still casually chic food and drink experience in the Hamptons.
THE VIBE Open seasonally from May to the end of September, Duryea’s is reminiscent of an elegantly renovated fish market. A raw bar display case containing oysters and lobsters is a showstopper, while a wall of windows looking out onto a pier and the bay rests beyond. Outside to the right is the breezy lobster deck, adorned with teak tables and chairs underneath a canvas covering. Orders are placed by marking what you want on a clipboard, taking it to the check-out counter to pay, and then waiting for staff to bring you your ample eats.
THE FOOD With chef Melissa O’Donnell at the helm, the Mediterranean-inspired menu is heavy on the seafood with nearly a dozen dishes offered in a family-style format excellent for sharing between multiple diners. With plenty of lobster-centric offerings, other options include elaborate seafood towers, a burger, roasted chicken, skirt steak, crab cakes and large side dish options. Only serving wine and beer, the one-page list offers countless rosé, white and red wines (in both regular and large format) perfect for outdoor sipping and soaking up the oncoming sunset at The End.
Raw Oysters
A prime example of letting good product speak for itself, these beautifully briny bivalves are served over crushed ice with zesty cocktail sauce, mignonette and lemons. Selections range from the über local, like Promised Land from Gardiners Bay and Peeko from New Suffolk on the North Fork, to classic East Coast oysters like the Canadian Beausoleil and Prince Caspian from Massachusetts.
Baked Stuffed Clams
Local Top Neck clams are chopped and then mixed with red bell peppers, parsley, garlic, oregano, lemon zest, panko and chopped chorizo. The flavorful mixture is then generously stuffed back into a clam shell and baked until golden brown. Served five to an order, a squeeze of grilled lemon is all you need.
Whole Grilled Octopus
A whole three-pound octopus is first slowly cooked in a mix of aromatic herbs then grilled and served over a small ragout of crushed potatoes and kalamata olives tossed with good extra virgin olive oil and tons of fresh herbs. Garnished with a handful of zingy sweet drop peppers, it’s that bright and punchy schmear of Romesco on the side of the bowl — packed with roasted red peppers, almonds and Aleppo — that seals the deal.
Lobster Cobb Salad
Arguably the pièce de resistance of the entire joint, this riff on a Cobb salad is definitely one for the scrapbook. A signature dish of Duryea’s, little sweet gem lettuces are tossed with avocado, crispy, crumbly bacon bits, halved cherry tomatoes and chopped hard-boiled egg. Swapping out the traditional blue cheese for shards of firm, sharp white cheddar, everything gets tossed in a tarragon dressing and topped with over half a pound of decadent lobster salad. Stunning in practically every way and very, very shareable.
Duryea’s Lobster Deck, 65 Tuthill Road, Montauk, 631-668-2410
Hours:
Monday through Friday: noon to 10 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Good to know: Walk-ins only
Web: duryeas.com
Social: @duryeasmontauk