Does anybody really need a recipe for a tomato sandwich?
Apparently we do — because few summer meals provoke such fiercely defended orthodoxy. The debate rages endlessly between traditionalists and modernizers. When Hamptons resident and news legend Katie Couric posted a viral video insisting that Pepperidge Farm white bread is non-negotiable, Southern purists nearly revolted. According to classic Southern tomato sandwich — championed by Garden & Gun — the cardinal rule is to use the softest, squishiest, cheapest store-brand white bread you can find, slathered in Duke’s mayonnaise (which for local devotees on the hunt, can actually be tracked down at Lidl in Westhampton Beach). Anything too structured or preachy is practically a sin. Meanwhile, local sourdough enthusiasts push back with thick, artisan slices and Hellmann’s. Should the bread be toasted or soft? Is adding fresh basil a welcome upgrade or an insult that turns a simple classic into “bruschetta-ish” territory?
In addition to the myriad farms found across the Hamptons growing pristine summer tomatoes, we’re partial to Hank Hulse Farms, The Farm on Lakeland and Rottkamp’s Fox Hollow Farm a bit further up the island for equally impressive crop. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
Despite the civil war over crusts and condiments, everyone agrees on one fundamental law: a proper heirloom tomato sandwich aims straight for your shirt. Wearing white is strongly discouraged, and the entire creation is best consumed while leaning forward over the kitchen sink.
Up at The Farm on Lakeland in Sayville, owner Mary Hammerle understands the reverence surrounding peak-season heirlooms. Mary and her husband Rob originally established Springtimes Garden Center back in 1992 before moving to Lakeland Avenue in 2015 to combine their nursery with a dedicated farm stand. Today, it remains a true family affair: their son, Rob, is deeply involved in the business and currently tends to their own crop of tomatoes grown right on the property, which are just starting to come in.
While they wait for their homegrown yield to hit full throttle, Mary relies on long-standing East End farming relationships to stock her tables, such as Rottkamp’s Fox Hollow Farm in Baiting Hollow and Hank Hulse Farms on Barnes Road in Moriches, where she’s particularly fond of the sweet, pineapple variety.
Mary discovered Hank’s the old-fashioned way. “I came across him going down that side street,” Mary recalls. “I stopped in — as I do with everything, how I’ve met all the farmers — just stopping in to introduce myself.” Decades later, that personal connection keeps her counter stocked with some of the best heirlooms on the South Shore.
The Hammerle family at their farmstand, The Farm on Lakeland in Sayville: (from left to right) son Rob Hammerle, his father Rob, Mary, and her grandson Rob. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
Mary’s own tomato sandwich roots trace straight back to the South. Her father, Harden, grew up in Augusta, Georgia, and was an unapologetic white-bread-and-Duke’s-mayo man who ate his sandwiches over the sink as an August ritual. Mary prefers hers built on thick-sliced local sourdough from Mademoiselle, a small-batch sourdough bakery in Patchogue, but she keeps the rest unpretentious: a massive slab of heirloom, a healthy swipe of mayo, salt, and black pepper. No frills, no fancy pesto — just pure, unvarnished late summer.
Tips for the Home Cook
- Slice Thick Slabs: Cut your heirloom tomatoes into thick slices (at least ½-inch). Thin slices quickly turn mushy and lose their structural integrity against the bread.
- Season the Fruit Directly: Lay your tomato slices flat on a paper towel or cutting board and season them with coarse salt and black pepper a couple of minutes before assembling. Pre-salting seasons the fruit directly and draws out excess surface water so your bread doesn’t turn soggy.
- Spread Mayo Edge-to-Edge: Whether you swear by Duke’s or Hellmann’s, coat both slices of bread completely to the crusts. The oil in the mayonnaise acts as a moisture barrier that keeps tomato juice from soaking straight through the bread.
- Respect the Sink Rule: Do not attempt to eat a peak-season heirloom sandwich at a formal dining table or on a couch. Stand in front of the kitchen sink, lean forward, and let the juices fall where they may.
Heirloom tomato sandwich
Ingredients
- 8 thick slices sourdough bread (such as Mademoiselle sourdough) or soft white bread
- 2 to 3 large ripe heirloom tomatoes (sourced from Hank's, Rottkamp's Fox Hollow, the Farm on Lakeland, or wherever you get your favorite tomatoes)
- 1/2 cup mayonnaise (Duke's or Hellman's)
- coarse sea salt or flaky salt, to taste
- freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Directions
- Slice the Tomatoes: Using a sharp serrated bread knife, cut the heirloom tomatoes into thick slabs (about ½-inch thick).
- Season the Slices: Lay the tomato slices in a single layer on paper towels or a cutting board. Sprinkle generously with coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper on both sides; let sit for 2 minutes.
- Prep the Bread: Spread a thick, even layer of mayonnaise edge-to-edge on one side of all 8 bread slices.
- Assemble the Sandwich: Divide the seasoned heirloom tomato slabs evenly across 4 of the mayonnaise-coated bread slices, stacking the tomatoes generously. Top each with the remaining bread slices, mayo-side down.
- Slice and Serve: Cut each sandwich gently in half with a serrated knife and serve immediately—preferably standing over the kitchen sink.
