As a food photographer, I’m constantly asked the same question: “Do you actually get to eat the food after the shoot?”
The short answer? Not always. In a high-production studio, food is often a beautiful lie — held together by ‘smoke and mirrors’ like toothpicks, hairspray or glue. Because these dishes are prepared for the lens rather than the palate, they are typically undercooked, unseasoned, and left to sit for hours. By the time the food stylist is finished poking and prodding, the appeal has usually vanished.
Restaurant shoots are different; they’re a sprint. The dish hits the table, and you’d better be ready to capture that fleeting moment of perfection before the steam dissipates or the sauce breaks.
Often, if it’s a one-dish shoot, the restaurant will offer to pack it up for me. That was the case with a recent lobster roll feature assignment (stay tuned for more on that in Southforker’s upcoming July issue), where I found myself heading home with two containers of beautifully poached lobster meat.
Utilizing both easily found pantry staples and a few uniquely East End products, these lobster cakes use Greek yogurt as as a binder, Ritz crackers for that classic, buttery crunch and Tesque hot sauce from Springs Fireplace for a splash of saucy heat. (Photos by Doug Young)
Working in the magazine world means our minds — and our production schedules — are always a few months ahead of the calendar. I wasn’t quite in a lobster roll mood yet, especially with the cold, rainy Long Island spring we’ve been having. And while I have plenty of chef friends ready with advice, nine out of ten simply told me to toss the lobster over pasta and call it a day.
I decided to pivot. Instead of the expected, I went with a lobster cake — a brilliant way to stretch that prized meat using my trusted air fryer. (I know, I know… I’m becoming the guy who won’t stop talking about his gadgets, but stay with me.) This decision was backed by a staggering amount of “reference material” I’ve collected over the years — shelves of cookbooks, many of them signed, that hold a place of honor in my home. I kept thinking of Lidey Heuck’s “Cooking in Real Life”; her recipe for baked crab dip uses Old Bay, a pantry staple that does the heavy lifting here, eliminating the need for separate celery salt or paprika. For the binder, I took a cue from the team at Port in Greenport and their baked clam recipe; they use Ritz crackers to achieve that classic, buttery, nostalgia-heavy crunch. It’s a flavor profile built entirely from tips gathered while being out and about with my camera.
Crisped and served with spicy remoulade, these cakes are perfect for a spring lunch. Invite a friend, serve with a fresh salad, and don’t worry — there’ll be plenty of time for traditional rolls once those warm, sunny days finally arrive.
Widely inspired by Lidey Heuck’s “Cooking in Real Life,” her recipe for baked crab dip uses Old Bay, a pantry staple that does the heavy lifting here, eliminating the need for a smattering of seasonings. (Photos by Doug Youg)
Tips for the Home Cook
- The Cracker Factor: Resist the urge to turn your Ritz crackers into dust. You want some pea-sized shards in there to provide that buttery, golden texture. Think of it like adjusting the focus on a lens — you want just enough definition to make the subject pop.
- The Chill is Crucial: I know the air fryer is all about instant gratification, but don’t skip the 30-minute fridge nap. It’s the difference between a lobster cake that holds its shape and one that decides to disintegrate into a (very expensive) pile of crumbs.
- The High-Fidelity Flip: When you’re spraying the tops with olive oil, don’t be shy. The air fryer needs that little bit of fat to mimic the cinematic, golden-brown crust you’d get from a deep fryer — minus the professional cleanup.
- The Lobster Clause: If you don’t happen to have a restaurant handing you containers of perfectly poached lobster meat, high-quality frozen claw-and-knuckle meat works beautifully here. Just make sure it’s completely thawed and patted dry; moisture is the enemy of a crisp “Not-Roll.”
- Cover Try: To achieve the wow factor and a cookbook-worthy presentation, finish with a dusting of freshly grated lemon zest over the cakes and select a vintage platter for plating. It’s those small, archival touches that elevate a simple lunch into a feature story.
The ‘Not-a-Roll’ lobster cake
Ingredients
- 2 cups lobster meat, cooked and chopped
- 1 large egg, lightly whisked
- 1/4 cup Greek yogurt (for the cake binder)
- 1 cup Ritz or butter crackers, crushed
- 1 tbsp Old Bay seasoning
- 1/2 tsp dry mustard
- 2 tbsp green onions, finely chopped
- 1 tbs lemon juice
For the spicy remoulade
- 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tsp hot sauce (or to taste)
- a squeeze of fresh lemon juice
Directions
- In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the egg,1/4 cup yogurt, lemon juice, Old Bay, ground ginger, and dry mustard.
- Fold in the chopped lobster meat and green onions.
- Gently stir in the crushed butter crackers until the mixture holds together.
- Refrigerate the mixture for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to meld and the crackers to absorb the moisture.
- Shape the mixture into four equal-sized patties.
- Lightly spray your air fryer basket with olive oil spray. Place the patties in the basket in a single layer.
- Lightly spray the tops of the cakes with olive oil.
- Air fry at 370°F for 8–10 minutes, or until the cakes are golden and crisp.
- While the cakes cook, whisk together the remoulade ingredients in a small bowl.
- Serve the warm lobster cakes over a seasonal salad with a generous dollop of the spicy remoulade.
