Many talented chefs pass through the Hamptons—some stay for years, others for a season—but they are all memorable. We at Southforker like to keep in touch with our talented recipe contributors, like chef Nick Vogel, who shared his award-winning recipe for New England Clam Chowder with us in 2023. Lately, though, he’s moved on to greener, or shall we say steelier, pastures in Allentown, PA.
The Philadelphia-born chef, an alumnus of Baron’s Cove and former regional executive chef for EHP Hospitality Group, has been appointed director of culinary and restaurant operations at The Dime, located inside the Renaissance Allentown Hotel. During his time on the East End, however, he took full advantage of local bounty, sourcing Dock to Dish cuisine and developing lifelong relationships with local fishermen and farmers — an experience that clearly shaped his focus.
“Getting back to Philly was always the plan. I let my knives guide me through DC, the Hamptons, and South Carolina; traveling for work was always interesting to me. I liked keeping the show on the road,” Nick reflects about his journey.
He was lured to the Cornerstone State’s Lehigh Valley region for an opportunity that provides both professional growth and a more year-round, community-oriented food scene compared to the more seasonally oriented comings and goings of the Hamptons. “As my friend joked, I’m following Billy Joel,” laughs Vogel, referencing to the famous song about Allentown and Nick’s former proximity to Billy Joel’s Sag Harbor home.
At The Dime, which features a brand-new concept and a refreshed interior, Vogel incorporates locally sourced ingredients from within a 25- to 50-mile radius. He is committed to the simple goal of letting great ingredients shine across the restaurant’s four seasonal menus.
This week’s recipe is a savory treat from Vogel’s past (and on the new menu at The Dime): Hush Puppies, a classic Southern bar snack, but done with a little southern Italian flair. The recipe is rooted in family memory. “My grandmother couldn’t cook very well, but she made two things: hush puppies and pecan pie… The only twist I’ve done to her recipe is subbing cornmeal out with polenta,’ he says. “It was a necessity one day when I was working at an Italian restaurant and didn’t have cornmeal around,” he shared. The result is a savory snack made with onions, tossed in honey butter with scallions, making it a perfect holiday appetizer.
Ultimately, the goal remains the same regardless of the location or cuisine. As Chef Nick says, “At the end of the day, the first thing my grandma would say when I walked in her house was: ‘Did you eat? Are you hungry or thirsty?’ It’s the question we start with at the host stand: Are you hungry or thirsty?”
Tips for the home cook:
- Be warned: hush puppies are going to go fast, so when entertaining, be prepared. “They’re also a really good vehicle for butter,” assures Vogel. We’re not arguing.
- This recipe is ideal for entertaining because you can prepare the hush puppies in advance. For holiday cooking, you can keep the dish or its components warm in a low oven (200-300°F) and finish them quickly just before serving.
- The cooking process is simple. Just frying them in your cast iron skillet or Dutch oven, and make sure to get them in and out of the hot oil tout de suite.
Chef Nick Vogel’s Savory Polenta Hush Puppies
Ingredients
- 3 cups instant polenta
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tsp salt
- 1 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 Spanish onion, grated
- 2 cups buttermilk
- 2 tsp honey
For frying and garnish:
- 1 quart neutral oil (canola, vegetable or peanut)
- 1/2 cup butter, softened
- 1 oz scallion, finely chopped
Directions
- In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients: polenta, flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder.
- Add the grated onion, eggs, buttermilk, and honey. Mix with a rubber spatula until all ingredients are just incorporated. The finished batter should be slightly firmer than standard pancake batter.
- Pour neutral oil into a heavy-bottomed pot, Dutch oven, or cast-iron skillet, ensuring the oil is deep enough for deep-frying. Heat the oil to 325°F.
- Using a 1.5-ounce to 2-ounce scoop, gently drop the batter directly into the hot oil. Cook for 3–4 minutes until they are evenly golden brown.
- The hush puppies are fully cooked when they float. To confirm, insert a toothpick or fork into the center; if it comes out clean, they are done (the 'toothpick test').
- While the hush puppies cook, gently pre-warm the butter and chopped scallions together (do not brown the butter).
- Once cooked, toss the hush puppies immediately in the warm butter and scallion mixture, or reserve the scallion butter for a dipping sauce.
Make-Ahead Tip: You can precook these and hold them in a warm oven (set to 200 degrees Fahrenheit) for 15–20 minutes before serving.
