As our feathered friends migrate back to the warmer days up north, one bird is ahead of the flock. Tomorrow, March 27, one of Montauk’s favorite neighborhood spots for brunch, cocktails and late-night revelry, The Bird (47 S. Elmwood Ave. 631-668-5833), reopens with exciting new dishes highlighting Asian, French, and even Mexican-inspired cuisine from their newest culinary team member, executive chef Jake Pinkston.
“Originally, I wasn’t planning on staying open for an extra month this winter,” recalls owner Leo Daunt, “but Chef Jake approached us about doing a pop-up dinner menu for the holiday season, and we were like, yeah, sure!”
After a successful month-long run and complimentary feedback from guests, Daunt asked Pinkston to join full-time, starting this March after their winter break. Many of the well-received offerings from that test run have made their way to the new menu, including kinoko nabe, a hot pot (nabe) meal of mushrooms (kinoko) and umami. “Kinoko means ‘son of tree’ in Japanese,” says Pinkston, who lived (and ate) in Japan for four years before arriving and working at Montauk Yacht Club last season. “It’s a very traditional dish with a lot of contrasting flavors in every bite,” he continues, “I put a little twist on it by adding crispy shallots, togarashi (a Japanese seven-spice mixture), and crispy rice.”
owner, Leo Daunt and executive chef Jake Pinkston. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
Working alongside The Bird’s head chef Marcos Martinez Perez, the popular brunch scene will have new menu additions, including avocado toast, a smashed brunch burger, and some inventive cocktails from head bartender Virgil Cantu. Pinkston’s answer to the ubiquitous lobster roll even gets a reboot. “We wanted to capture those flavors with charred corn and snap peas under a foam of brown butter,” explains the chef of the playful, interactive dish of succulent lobster knuckles and claws. “You have to make sure you go all the way down to get the entire scoop and the bite and not just try the foam,” he continues, “it leaves room for mystery and curiosity.”
While perusing the new offerings, one starter stands out as a perfect share item, especially for the vegetarians at the table still looking for bold flavors. “I love Mexican cooking techniques with the fire, smoke, and heat,” says the well-traveled chef. “This cauliflower dish topped with salsa macha made with chili guajillo and chili morita is light yet satisfying.” Roasting the chili-oiled, halved cauliflower low and slow is the trick, guaranteeing more depth in flavor. Paired with white bean hummus and herbed labneh, this shareable dish may seem internationally adventurous, but as Pinkston attests, “the flavor profiles just work.”
Executive chef Jake Pinkston’s roasted cauliflower draws inspiration from several culinary styles and flavor profiles. (Photos by Doug Young)
“All of his dishes take you on a bit of a journey,” reiterates Daunt, whose family owns Daunt’s Albatross, the motel across the street from the iconic A-frame restaurant they took over in 2022 after a stylish renovation. “The goal this season for The Bird is to not only give people some choices but also guide them in a way,” he says. “Chef Jake is so passionate about his food, so we want to teach that passion through the front of the house and the service.”
Try this roasted cauliflower recipe for your next spring shindig. Pressed for time? Feel free to use store-bought hummus and Greek yogurt if you cannot find labneh. You may consider adding Pinkston’s generously shared recipes to your repertoire, as homemade is always better, even if it’s on the fly!
For more information, reservations, or inquiries about The Bird, call 631-668-5833 or email [email protected].
The Bird’s roasted cauliflower with garlic hummus, salsa macha & herb labneh
Ingredients
- 1 large head cauliflower, stems removed and cut in half
- 2 limes, for zesting and serving
- 1 handful of micro cilantro, for plating
- 1 handful of pepitas, for garnish and crunch
- pita bread, warmed and cut into triangles
Cauliflower spice oil
- 1 cup olive oil
- 2 tsp smoked paprika
- 2 tsp cumin
- 1 tbsp salt
- 1 pinch pepper
Garlic hummus
- 1 cup white beans, cooked ad drained (or substitute chickpeas)
- 1/2 cup tahini
- 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 3 garlic cloves, minced, or 2 tsp garlic confit
- 1/2 tsp cumin
- 1/4 tsp smoked paprika
- a good pinch of salt
Salsa macha
- 2 guajillo peppers, minced
- 5 morita peppers, minced
- 1 cup roasted peanuts, chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 tbsp roasted sesame seeds
- 2 cups canola oil
- 1 tsp apple cider vinegar
- 1/2 tsp dried oregano
- pinch of coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Herb labneh
- 1/2 cup labneh
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp lime juice
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 1 tbsp freshly chopped cilantro
- 1 tbsp freshly chopped mint
- 1 tbsp freshly chopped chives
- 1/4 tsp cumin
- 1/4 tsp salt, plus freshly ground pepper
Directions
- Preheat the oven to 425˚F and line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.
- Remove the stem of the cauliflower and cut in half.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the spice oil. Add the cauliflower to the center of your baking sheet, drizzle with oil to coat, and season, ensuring both halves are evenly covered. Save a bit of chili oil for plating.
- Roast cauliflower for 45-50 minutes, until al dente and caramelized. Allow to cool before removing the florets.
- On a large, round plate or platter, smear a generous portion of hummus on one side and drizzle with chili oil. Place the roasted cauliflower florets on top and a few generous dabs of salsa macha. Garnish with pepitas, micro cilantro, and lime zest.
- Serve immediately with warmed pita bread and a bowl of herbed labneh on the side for dipping.
For garlic hummus
- Add all ingredients for the garlic hummus to a small food processor. Blend until smooth, adding cold water if needed for consistency. Season with salt to taste and refrigerate.
For salsa macha
- Remove the stems and seeds from the chilis, then chop them evenly into tiny pieces.
- Add peanuts, garlic, sesame seeds, and oil to a sauce pot and heat on med/high for approximately 5 minutes until the garlic crisps and the seeds turn golden brown. Remove from heat and stir in the chopped chilis.
- Allow to cool for 10 minutes and transfer to a blender. Add vinegar, salt, and oregano and pulse until nicely combined but not too thin and set aside.
