Here in the Hamptons, you’d think the North Fork was a world away, as more than a few local restaurants and retail shops inexplicably ignore the bounty of excellent wines right in our own backyard. And we think that’s a shame.
In addition to the excellent wines of Wölffer, Channing Daughters and Duck Walk on the South Fork, there are over 50 producers just on the other side of the Peconic Bay whose wines are more than worthy of your attention. From stellar chardonnays that pair perfectly with our local fresh-from-the-water seafood to righteous reds that not only rock a rack of lamb or prime steak, they’re oh-so fun to stick in the cellar and re-visit over time.
Here, we’ll help you explore all there is to sip and savor from the Long Island AVA (American Viticultural Area). And even better: You don’t need an importer to get bottles to your doorstep. They’re right here for the popping — talk about low carbon footprint! Read it and sip…
The Winery: Raphael Vineyards
The Winemaker: Anthony Nappa
The Wine: 2019 Raphael Cabernet Franc Reserve
The Price: $50
The Grapes: 100% cabernet franc
The homeland of the red grape cabernet franc is that storied place of wine production, France. In Bordeaux it’s not often the star of the blend, where cabernet sauvignon and merlot reign supreme. In the Loire, it stands on its own, but with brooding traits of dark fruit and pencil lead. Lovely, but for some, an acquired taste.
Here on Long Island, via the deft hand of winemakers like Anthony Nappa of Raphael, it’s become a stand-alone show stopper that deserves to be one of our regional calling cards.
“It grows very well here on Long Island. It’s vigorous and always ripens well, even in cool years,” says Nappa. “It’s winter hardy and drought resistant; an all-around great fit for us.”
The 2019 vintage recently won best red in the state at the 2024 New York Wine Classic. It also marks 25 years in business for Raphael. That’s 25 years of learning how to, as Kenny Rogers sang, know when to hold ‘em and know when to fold ’em when finding that just-right balance with aging. Here, Nappa ensures that the delicate side of franc isn’t clobbered by the barrel: For 18 months, he puts only 21% of the wine in new French oak; the rest sits in more mellow, seasoned barrels.
What’s in your glass: “All of our reds are made naturally, hand harvested, hand sorted, wild fermented with no additives,” says Nappa. It’s an expressive, fresh red with aromas of black cherry and raspberry, lily of the valley, wild mint and baking spice. It’s nimble and medium bodied on the tongue, but it’s got a concentrated presence and weight on the palate that’s saying, “Hey, I’m not messing around here!”
Pairs with: “The great thing about cab franc is it pairs well with a wide range of things,” says Nappa. We say: Get yourself some duck breast, score it and grill it; roast some delicata squash. You’re welcome.
To hold or not to hold: Ready for the long haul, this can easily age 20-plus years. But, confides the winemaker, “I am a proponent of drinking most wines at the 10-plus year mark.”
