Cook This Now! Fluke tacos, Isla Mujeres style

Mid-to late July is prime time for fluke in Long Island waters. This left-eyed flatfish (both eyes are on the left side of its body when viewed from above with the dorsal fin facing up) is also called “the chameleon of the sea” by charter captains and fishing enthusiasts. “Fluke lay on the bottom and will often match their skin color to some degree with whatever sea floor bottom they’re on,” explains USCG Captain Tom Falco of West Islip’s Jenny E Charters. “Different shade patches are common to camouflage themselves, lighter in sand, darker in mud.”

With the many North and South Fork options for booking fishing charters (Orient-based, family-owned Nancy Ann Charters and Montauk’s Suzie E II), catching summer fluke for dinner should seem relatively easy. Not so much for commercial fishermen and fishmongers.

“It’s been a little spotty,” says Charlie Manwaring of Southold Fish Market, referring to the fluke coming from Orient. In addition, prices have risen due to the increased regulations for fishing, such as catch limits and scarcity.

“I remember selling [fluke] fillet for $5.99 per pound,” Manwaring recalls. “Years ago, a guy used to catch a thousand pounds of fish and bring it in. Nowadays, we’re limited in what we can take.” This rule also applies to NY state recreational fishing, which currently allows four daily flukes that must be 19 ½ inches, as of August 1, 2024. (Southold Fish Market can sell 14-inch fluke caught by commercial vessels but at limited quantities of 70 pounds.)

Sobering news indeed. But don’t let these limitations stop you from enjoying your legally sized catch of the day or taking a stab at filleting yourself!

“The first thing you want to do before you fillet is to bleed the fish immediately by cutting the gills, then submerge it into an ice bath slurry,” explains Falco. “With fluke specifically, you want the white side of the fish to lay up in the slurry. Bleeding and icing ensures your meat will have the highest quality and be easier and cleaner to fillet.”

While there are different methods to filleting fluke, investing in a good quality fillet knife (try the Wüsthof Classic Fish Fillet Knife available at Loaves and Fishes in Bridgehampton) is essential and safest. “You may consider wearing a fillet glove,” suggests Falco during the skillful process. “For the novice, start by cutting down the spine, head to tail, then peeling back and cutting the fillet off each side of the spine on the white and dark sides of the fish.” 

“It’s become popular again to remove the dark skin and the head, shave all around, leave the bones in, and pan fry it that way,” says Manwaring. “That was the old-school way to fillet fluke.”

Most of us will opt for the fillets to be prepped and ready by professional fishmongers. (The Seafood Shop in Wainscott carries locally caught fluke fillets.) And while the classic preparation of simple butter and lemon is always a go-to for this summertime favorite, why not add Yucatan flair to fish taco night at home?

This marinade recipe will bring that sabor, starting with the main ingredient achiote paste, made of annatto seeds, cumin, garlic cloves, oregano and coriander. This paste gives meat, fish and poultry a slightly spicy, earthy yet mildly sweet taste. It is well known as a seasoning for tikin xic (pronounced “teekeen sheek”), a popular Yucatan fish dish found in Isla Mujeres, Mexico. You can typically find small boxes of this deep red paste for sale in most Latin American supermarkets, but you may have to venture a bit to find it (La Poblanita Grocery in Patchogue has it in stock). Combined with spices, lime and orange juice (from the Seville or sour oranges, found in marinades and salsas throughout Mexico), the sauce is typically slathered over grouper, but our local fluke is a delicious substitute.

Serve it family style with your favorite toppings, but pickled onions are a non-negotiable. Grab some from Horman’s Pickles at the Westhampton Beach Farmers Market to save time. You’ll need it to make margaritas to go with your Isla Mujeres tacos.