Decade’s old Sam’s keeps comfort food alive and well in East Hampton.
THE GIST: Set among a mélange of boutiques boasting names like “Gucci,” “Prada” and “Chanel”
is Sam’s, which has called downtown East Hampton home since 1947. Serving classic, American-influenced Italian fare to generations of South Fork locals, the beloved resto was originally established by Sam Nasca. For almost two decades now, it’s been owned and operated by Graham Quinn, who’s barely changed the food and look of the joint since it opened nearly 80 years ago.
THE VIBE: Sam’s is a bit of a time warp. To the right of the 10-seat, four-tap, L-shaped wooden bar is a small paneled dining room with a row of booths upholstered in forest green pleather, their tables set simply with paper napkins, cutlery and shakers of the requisite red pepper flakes and parmesan cheese. Two old-school Tiffany-style lamps hang in the front window over a duo of larger booths, with a half-dozen or so extra tables tucked in the back. It’s a first come, first served kind of a place, and it fills up fast.
THE FOOD: To dine at Sam’s is to nosh on nostalgia, with a straightforward, affordable menu. Starters include baked clams, cheesy garlic bread and nearly a dozen salad options. Entrées range from a slew of pasta dishes to classic forms of Parmigiana and Milanese. Pizzas are made from a secret family recipe that’s been the same since day one and available in a 9-, 12- or 16-inch format. Build your own from myriad available toppings or opt for one of the 15-strong house specialty pies.
Rigatoni all’Amatriciana
A staple of Roman trattorias, the riff at Sam’s swaps out the traditionally softer guanciale for crispier bits of bacon — and it totally works. Expertly cooked rigatoni is tossed in a rustically textured marinara of plum tomatoes, large-diced yellow onions and roasted garlic. A chiffonade of fresh basil lightens up this little bit of smoky, whole lot of savory play on a classic.
Bonac
In a tip of the hat to the bounty of seafood local to the hamlet — and maybe more important, to its native people — this shellfish-forward pie features an even layer of deftly cooked lump crabmeat and roasted clams atop a sauced and cheesed crust. Topped with healthy chunks of chopped shrimp and a heavy dose of roasted garlic, the pie has a delightful salty sweetness not usually found in typical pizza place fare.
Rosaline Salad
To a combination of crisp torn red leaf lettuce, quartered tomatoes, shredded carrots, julienned radish and sliced cucumber, the Rosaline adds creamy garbanzo beans and a pop of acidity, thanks to a spoonful of marinated mushrooms and sliced artichoke hearts. Generously piled in a large bowl and accompanied by a gravy boat of zingy Italian dressing, it’s a welcome reprieve from the otherwise rich and carb-centric menu.
Eggplant Parmigiana
Slender rounds of skin-on eggplant are dredged in seasoned breadcrumbs, pan fried, layered with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese and baked beneath a blanket of mozzarella. Served with a cute little side bowl of al dente spaghetti tossed with tomato sauce, this vegetarian-style parm entrée gives its carnivorous counterparts a hearty run for their money.
Sam’s Special Paying homage to the familiar pizzeria fave is this rendition of the classic sausage and pepper pie. It features roughly chopped green bell peppers and halved button mushrooms paired with a healthy portion of onions and garlic over melted mozzarella. But it’s the well distributed quarter-sized crumbles of sausage dolloped on top then baked until just crispy that really seals the deal.
Sam’s Bar and Restaurant
36 Newtown Lane, East Hampton
631-324-5900
Open every day at 5 p.m.
Web: samseasthampton.com
