Imagine if you had but one chance each year to do your job and do it well — and the efforts of everything you did and every decision you made all year long would hang on the success of this one opportunity. One chance to put out a magazine. One day to open a store and sell your wares. One home to build, one class to teach, case to argue, car to sell, meal to make, painting to paint.
Now consider that you must also depend on the cooperation of the weather and have only one medium with which to work: Grapes. You’d think after 30 years of this annual do-or-die existence at Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, Roman Roth might be downright exhausted. Or maybe even a little gloomy. But three decades under his belt only ignite his imagination and fuel the fire to keep creating and building as the winery’s fermenter-in-chief.