THE GIST Open just before July Fourth, Lion’s Nook — the second restaurant from Parioli Hospitality, led by founder and CEO Alex Rossi — sits in the space that was long occupied by Rowdy Hall along East Hampton’s main drag. Tucked away down an alley in the historic Parrish Mews in the village’s downtown, the resto fills its dining role, serving as a refreshed neighborhood bar and grill named for Lion Gardiner, one of the town’s earliest settlers.
THE VIBE The restaurant’s façade is flanked by a fleet of white-clothed tables neatly arranged throughout the outdoor brick patio. Underneath the black-and-white striped awning and through the front door, to the left, is the bright, airy and newly renovated marble-topped bar adorned with a dozen clubby, matte black seats. Across from the bar rests a handful of chic high tops, while the 50-seat dining room wraps around to the back, peppered with white, black and gold finishes and anchored by the building’s original fireplace.
East Hampton’s Lion’s Nook brings a refreshed experience to a long-loved spot on Main Street. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
THE FOOD Helmed by chef Fabian Rodas, who also serves as executive chef of the restaurant group’s flagship Springs Tavern and Grill, offerings include a healthy mix of familiar yet refined bistro-meets-pub dishes, with classic comfort foods driven by locally sourced fare and dotted with Italian, Japanese and British influences.
Spicy salmon tartare High-quality salmon from the Faroe Islands is cured for hours in sugar, salt and citrus before being hand-chopped and tossed in a spicy yuzu kosho aioli, a zesty citrus-chili mayonnaise. Fanned-out coins of pickled cucumbers are layered with a mound of hijiki seaweed salad, then topped with the salmon, sliced avocado and a spoonful of tobiko. A generously portioned app where the components shine both individually and harmoniously.
Miso & honey shokupan A traditional milk bread made with flour, milk, honey, yeast, butter, eggs and salt, this Japanese take is a sweeter, lighter and more delicately textured version of a brioche-meets-Parker House-roll. Topped with black sesame seeds and served with house-made miso honey butter sprinkled with Maldon salt flakes, it’s the elegantly cozy comfort food you need.
Fish & chips Local cod filets are battered in seasoned AP and corn flours, blended with equal parts light and dark beer (to achieve a light, crisp coating), and then flash fried. Three pieces are shingled atop each other and served with thick-cut Idaho potato French fries. A ramekin of classic creamy coleslaw offers balanced acidity, as does the proprietary tartar sauce that you just keep going back to.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Spicy salmon tartare, miso & honey shokupan, rack of lamb, fish & chips, niçoise salad. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
Tuna niçoise Montauk tuna, seared rare, then sliced and placed between wedges of juicy tomatoes, is centered by a lightly balsamic-dressed bed of tender mesclun greens and quickly blanched haricot verts, then garnished with a handful of whole briny kalamata olives and a perfectly jammy seven-minute egg.
Rack of lamb Two double-cut Australian lamb chops are marinated in olive oil, garlic, onion, rosemary and salt, then grilled and served over a velvety pool of celery root purée and a bundle of charred broccolini. A piquant green herb sauce, containing mint, basil, parsley, and arugula, offers a welcome reprieve from an otherwise rich, robust dish.
Lion’s Nook 10 Main St., East Hampton, 631-907-2619
lionsnook.com, @lions_nook
Hours Tuesday to Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m., happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. daily.
