THE GIST: For almost two decades, Honest Man Hospitality’s roadside joint has kept Hamptons barbecue fans well fed with finger-lickin’ good eats in a casually quaint spot situated on Town Line Road, just on the border where the Town of Southampton meets East Hampton Town.
THE VIBE: Situated in a rustic, barn-like structure, reclaimed wood runs throughout the interior while a counter adorned with menu boards beckons guests, who get to peer through an open kitchen just beyond. To the left, a sliding glass door overlooks an outdoor deck with picnic tables; inside, built-in rust-colored tables and wooden booths flank the dining room. To the right, just beyond the soda fountain, is the no-frills yet tidy bar equipped with ample craft beer and whiskey offerings. A half dozen high-top tables and metal chairs are arranged in front of a stone fireplace perfect for sipping and socializing.
Chef Joe Realmuto subscribes to the low-and-slow tenats of the smoker at Sagaponack’s roadside resto, Townline BBQ. (Photo credit: Doug Young)
THE FOOD: Helmed by chefs Joe Realmuto and Bill Valentine, smoked meats are at the heart of the restaurant. Drawing from barbecue techniques found across the nation, all of TownLine’s meats are antibiotic free and complemented by house-made sauces, dry rubs and Southern-inspired side dishes.
TL spoon salad A welcome reprieve from an otherwise meat-centric menu, this aptly named dish is composed of bite-sized components that can be eaten with a spoon. Romaine and green cabbage are mixed with red beans, kidney beans, diced carrots, red bell peppers, pickled jalapeños and dry-rubbed-coated croutons, all tossed in a zingy red-wine vinaigrette.
Pulled chicken sandwich Dark meat from smoked chickens is hand-pulled, smothered with TL’s signature ketchup-based barbecue sauce, topped with a creamy slaw of shredded cabbage and carrots tossed in a mayo and celery seed sauce (plus a few homemade spicy pickles for a kicked-up briny bite) and piled high on a Martin’s potato bun.
Brisket Typically, 14-pound slabs of brisket are cooked overnight, anywhere from 12 to 18 hours, according to Valentine, and are salted, peppered and smoked and served in quarter-, half- or whole-pound portions. “That’s it,” he says. “Nice, low-and-slow barbecue.”
Cornbread Dubbed what Valentine calls a “Yankee cornbread,” this New England-style version is characterized by its sweet flavor, golden color and use of all-purpose flour in addition to cornmeal. The chef also adds condensed milk, resulting in a delightfully dense, not at all dry, almost cake-like cornbread.
Clockwise from top left: TL Spoon salad; pulled chicken sandwich; brisket; whoopie pie; cornbread; St. Louis-style ribs. (Photos by Doug Young)
St. Louis-style ribs Served by the half or whole rack, meticulously trimmed pork spareribs are seasoned with a house dry rub of paprika, garlic powder, chili powder, onion powder and a variety of peppers before heading into the hickory and oak-powered smoker. They’re cooked low and slow for about three hours until tender.
Whoopie pie Taking the best from the worlds of cakes and cookies, this iconic dessert sees Valentine’s sinfully sweet marshmallow-based buttercream sandwiched between two pillowy, soft-baked chocolate cookies. “Super sweet, almost cloyingly sweet,” he says. “But I like that. I’m good with that.”
Townline BBQ 3593 Montauk Highway, Sagaponack, 631-537-2271
Hours Open noon to 8 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; noon to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday
