This compact train-side café is nailing the most important meal of the day.
THE GIST: Opened in 2021 by Massachusetts native and New York City transplant Will Pendergast along with his wife, Johanna — now residents of the adjacent hamlet Remsenburg — Little Gull Café in Speonk is already a beloved institution for local (or commuting, or visiting) diners. Situated directly next to the LIRR train taracks and with Pendergast at the helm, the café uses locally sourced foods to offer refreshing, almost entirely made-from-scratch riffs on classic, comforting dishes, evoking luncheonette nostalgia.
THE VIBE: Little Gull is reminiscent of a Southern-style roadhouse resto from the past blended with a current, bustling Williamsburg coffee shop. Tucked inside the building that once housed the old waiting room at the Speonk train station, a tiny open kitchen sits directly across from the front door. Separating the kitchen form the dining room is a wooden-topped counter set with two stools; an orange banquette runs along the perimeter of the room with eight snugly set tables. Potted plants hang from the ceiling, jazzy brass music plays lightly in the background, and there’s a server buzzing around refilling coffee cups and delivering breakfast platters. Outside, there are about a half doze vintage wooden tables along the covered brick porch. It’s bright, it’s colorful, it’s warm and it smells like butter.
THE FOOD: Pendergast, who usually works with just one other line cook, cleverly crafts familiar Southern diner-style plates but strives to utilize refined, locally sourced, artisanal ingredients when he can, resulting in balanced, thoughtful dishes. while Little Gull serves classic, winning lunch and dinner are, tis breakfast choices are arguably the true stars of the show — and menu mainstays. A lot of thought and love goes into the food here, as rolls, biscuits and English muffins are baked all day long, pancakes are born from an in-house sourdough starter, eggs are locally sourced, sausage patties are homemade and most dishes come with a zingy, cutesy little salad, so there’s no guilt whatsover.
Buttermilk Pancakes “Probably the dish that sells the most,” Pendergast says, these stackable beauties contain Little Gull’s house sourdough starter, giving them a distinct but oh-so-pleasant tang on the finish. A touch of citrus zest, a pinch of cardamom and a splash of Grand Marnier add a not-to-sweet umami flavor, providing the perfect vessel to soak up all that real-deal maple syrup and creamy, melty whipped butter.
Breakfast Platter The staple of any god diner or breakfast joint and perfect for those who want a little of everything. Little Gull ups the ante with thoughtful, homemade additions.
Fluffy, pillowy pieces of sourdough toast are shingled atop each other and served with a homemade sausage patty (or bacon or country ham). You also get picture-perfect eggs cooked any style, the crispiest, lighter-than-air hashbrown that puts McDonald’s to shame, and a baby house salad to balance everything out.
Smoked Salmon with Johnnycakes Handmade to order, a giant sweet-meets-savory johnnycake sits snuggly in the bottom of a shallow bowl. Pendergast says the preparation of the cake itself changes slightly from season to season, comprising everything from artisanal and organic corncob grits from Anson Mills to handshucked local sweetcorn kernels. A mound of Hudson Valley smoked salmon, a dollop of crème fraiche and a sprinkle of chives is a fitting complement to the sort-of sweet, toothsome texture of the johnnycake. Also, don’t sleep on those pickled onions. You need them to cut through an otherwise rich dish.
Tuna Melt Paying homage to the classics, this rendition of the diner favorite is, for lack of a better word, impressive. Tuna salad (made with lots of fresh herbs, chilis, pickles and lemon juice) is stacked high between toasted but still soft sourdough, with crunchy lettuce and a layer of melted sharp cheddar cheese. It’s smartly served with kettle potato chips, “not because we don’t like fries,” Pendergast says, “but because we really want to encourage people to put chips on the sandwich.” Duly noted.
The Remsenburger A smash burger to end all smash burgers. This signature dish, whose name is a tip of the hat to the neighboring hamlet, is made from an 80/20 blend of ground beef that’s freshly sourced several times a week from Justin’s Chop Shop in Westhampton Beach. Served on a housemade roll, accoutrements include sautéed onions, shredded lettuce, American cheese and pickles. The real secret ingredient is Little Gull’s burger sauce, made from a special combo of Duke’s mayonnaise, ketchup, gochugang and pickle juice.
Grains N’ Greens A welcome ode to seasonal local produce, this dish highlights the ever-changing vegetarian bounty of the East End. Recently, the produce-packed plate featured items from the likes of Remsen Farms and HOG Farm in Brookhaven. Mixed with protein-packed quinoa, creamy crumbly cheese, toasted nuts and an herby vinaigrette, it’s a healthy but still hearty change of pace.
LITTLE GULL CAFÉ
54 N. Phillips Ave., Speonk
631-801-2176
Hours Breakfast and lunch, Wednesday through Friday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner, Thursday through Saturday, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday
Good to know Reservations aren’t required, but suggested for dinner.
