Winter can be so dreary. That’s why for hundreds (in some traditions, thousands) of years humans have looked to illumination to quell the slow-season doldrums (and, in all likelihood, make it a little easier to see where they’re going).
The pagan burning of the Yule log in Germany; the Irish tradition of placing a Christmas candle in a window; the lighting of the Hanukkah menorah and the kinara during Kwanzaa; the igniting of candles during the dark of night for Yaldā; the festival of lights for St. Lucia’s Day in Scandinavia. The world over, short days make for a multitude of traditions that bring brightness into the dark.
And on the South Fork, Wölffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, Sagaponack, 631-537-5106) began its own night of brilliance more than a decade ago: the annual holiday Lighting of the Vines.
“The Lighting of the Vines started back in 2012,” says winemaker and co-owner Roman Roth. “I used to say we should host a big Christmas or holiday party to fundraise in our beautiful winery!”
He had an eager ally in Marc Wölffer, who, with his sister Joey, co-own the famed East End wine spot with Roth. The two men set about decorating all the big trees in front of the winery with LED lights, giving a happy, homey glow to Sagg Road. That, in turn, sparked an idea among their marketing and sales team: Why not light up the vines themselves?
They added a season-of-giving component to the postcard-perfect view in the form of designer-decorated Christmas trees and, eventually, wreaths they auctioned off for charity. From there, a winter festival of light blossomed, with sister Joey adding her keen aesthetic sensibilities and professional design knowhow into the mix.
“In 2021, I decided we should fully decorate the ceiling of the tasting room with a holiday display of ornaments and garland. This added a beautiful and festive feeling to this event and the entire holiday season,” Joey says. “Last year, the St. Ann’s Choir, which Roman is a part of, joined us to welcome guests with carols on the front staircase, setting a perfect tone for the evening.”
For the trio, the other, perhaps most important aspect of the event, is their partnership over the years with local charities, which receive 100% of the auction proceeds –– like the Bridgehampton Center, which holds a special place in the hearts of Roth and the Wölffers.
“For the past four years, Wölffer has partnered with the Bridgehampton Center, a community-based organization serving all marginalized East End children and families. The Center encourages, educates and empowers children and their families,” says Joey.
Hear Roman Roth (right) sing a song, or three, and get to bid on gorgeous designer wreaths (right). (Photo credit: David Benthal)
Last year, via wreaths designed by the likes of Arthur Golabek Flowers, Donna Karan’s Urban Zen, The Baker House and even the children of the Bridgehampton Center themselves, they raised over $100,000.
“This event has become a source of immense pride for me,” Joey says. “It’s a special occasion not only to commemorate the past year but to express gratitude to our community.”
Hosted between their elegant tasting room and outdoors on the vineyard-adjacent heated terrace, it’s a cozy, feel-good kind of evening, complete with mulled Glühwein for the German-born winemaker, flowing flutes of extra brut Noblesse Oblige sparkling wine, along with a selection of other particularly nice pours made by Roth, hors d’oeuvres, live music (including singing from the velvet-jacketed winemaker — “O Tannenbaum” and Elvis Christmas songs tend to be favorites), a visit from Santa himself, and, of course, the finale: the lighting of two full acres of Wölffer’s estate vines, all strung with LED lights.
“The Lighting of the Vines is one of the most exciting holiday events on the East End. Everyone gets dressed up, and the countdown to illuminate the vines is always a thrilling moment,” says Roth. “As I like to say: We’re the only vineyard visible at night from outer space!”
