When a restaurant has been around for a while it tends to take on a personality of its own.
Atmosphere, layout and the overall feel are certainly important contributing factors in the general impression the place gives you, but it’s the human factor that perhaps matters most importantly.
This year, Sagaponack’s Old Stove Pub (3516 Montauk Highway) celebrates its 55th year, and while the iconic spot ranks among some of the area’s longest standing — and most beloved — restaurants, full of easy-to-pinpoint character and style, it’s the unrelenting dedication to its patrons that sets it apart from its Hamptons contemporaries.
In addition to being a hub for simple yet satiating Greek and steakhouse fare, over the decades Old Stove has consistently served locals and visitors of the East End with a comfortable, cozy and extremely user-friendly attitude. Its roots are firmly planted in the ever-growing arsenal of Hamptons restaurants, and while the joint has gone through a few iterations over the years, current owner and South Fork native Joe DeCristofaro has made it his mission to keep homey hospitality at its core.
“Our focus for moving forward is maintaining the historic charm, honoring the traditional Greek dishes and creating new fantastic menu items,” he says.
Celebs, civilians and all diners in-between
Originally built as a farmhouse in 1820 (its name a nod to this era), the property became an Irish pub in 1967. Two years later it was re-opened by Coula Johnides and her family, who were of Greek heritage and ran the restaurant for 35 years. While under the Johnides’ ownership, it gained a reputation for being a gathering haven for both celebrity and civilians alike.
Beloved for its no-frills yet cozy ambiance — “When you’re fed up with the chic, come to Greek,” was the resto’s slogan born during the Johnides family’s reign — Old Stove became synonymous with comfort eating in a familial, homey setting, not so easily found at slightly stuffier Hamptons-style eateries. It was also the sort of place where you were likely to rub elbows with the stars, as regular customers were music legend Billy Joel, fashion designer Ralph Lauren and comedian and “Tonight Show” host Jimmy Fallon.
In addition to its impressive Rolodex of celebrity diners, the haunt has regularly hosted live music and karaoke nights, offering locals a place to hang after contemporary dining establishments close. Over the years, it became known for its vibrant culture and come-into-the-fold sense of hospitality, welcoming guests on particularly lively evenings to smash of a couple of plates on the floor and yell out a joyous “Opa!” It’s the sort of place where diner demographics can’t be easily pegged; a characteristic of Old Stove that remains true to this day.
All signs lead to Old Stove
Widely considered a Hamptons landmark, an arrow-shaped neon sign sits at the front of the restaurant’s Montauk Highway location, beckoning patrons down a long, gravel driveway to what otherwise could easily be mistaken for a private residence perched among a farmland-filled stretch of road. A red horse, nicknamed Achilles, greets diners at the entrance of the two-story, wood-shingled building.
Just to the left of the front door sits the original mahogany bar, with a fireplace dating back to the early 1800s. A row of neatly set tables draped with red and white checkered tablecloths topped in glass is to the immediate left, continuing down the indoor wraparound porch overlooking the alfresco dining patio. Lined with large windows, the opposite wall of the porch features paintings from Larry Rivers.
White cast-iron radiators emit warmth to places an old stove can’t reach, and through a small doorway across from the main entrance is an original black and white staircase (a reminding feature of the building’s original farmhouse intentions). A sushi bar sits on the opposite of the room. Black and white photographs of celebrities from decades prior adorn the far wall. It’s warm, welcoming and intimate, effectively balancing the just-right amount of casual and familiar, assuring diners from all walks of life that they’re in the right place.
A restaurant’s renaissance
After Johnides died in 2018, the restaurant changed ownership and although it remained open for business, it ultimately fell into a state of neglect and disrepair, according to DeCristofaro, threatening the staple eatery’s once solid renown.
“Overcoming the reputation of the previous Old Stove Pub was challenging and still is,” he says. “Many customers who live nearby come for the first time and are very pleased with their experience. However, so many have had horrible experiences in the past and simply never wanted to come back.”
In an effort to change that, DeCristofaro put his extensive restaurant expertise to good use.
“I have been working at restaurants since a young age and continued to do so through college,” the Southampton native says. “When I was publishing magazines in New York, the Hamptons and Aspen, we wrote about numerous restaurants, food and wine. I’ve traveled extensively and enjoyed dining at some of the best restaurants. After the sale of my publishing business I had the pleasure of working with Cigar Aficionado and Wine Spectator, which only enhanced my experience in the industry.”
Renovating the building was a labor of love. “There was an actual hole it the kitchen floor that the chefs could fall through if it was not covered!” he says. “In addition, much of the plumbing and electric work had to be redone, as well as a full redo of the bathrooms, walls, floors and much more. In the near future, the restaurant will get a facelift, for sure.”
With the initial round of TLC in the rearview, DeCristofaro and his team successfully brought Old Stove into the 21st century. While paying a heavy homage to its long-time Greek-centric offerings, he’s broadened the menu slightly, by adding more Mediterranean-influenced and locally sourced items. Among the best-known dishes are the dry-rubbed steaks, a classic Greek salad (no lettuce filler here, people!), a plate of housemade hummus, tzatziki and baba ganoush with warm pita, and roasted lamb chops. Overseeing the kitchen and its staff, DeCristofaro has also added sushi, (a personal favorite of his) hand-rolled à la minute plus a slew of nightly specials.
Additionally, DeCristofaro is keeping Old Stove open for Thanksgiving, serving familiar holiday classics plus a few Greek-style items for diners looking to branch out from the traditional gravy-and-carb heavy meal. Take a peek at the menu here.
For the rest of the off-season, Old Stove hopes to feature several promotions including “Pub Night,” which is slated to include $12 appetizers, burgers and drink specials.
“I believe it’s good to diversify and offer a variety of ways to enjoy our restaurant to a variety of clientele,” DeCristafaro says. “Weekenders, tourists and locals can all enjoy the Old Stove Pub any night of the week.”
For reservations and more information, call 631-537-3300.
